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Thursday, March 7, 2013

Adastra by Caron c1936

In 1936, the world of perfumery was on the brink of a transformative era. The scent landscape was being reshaped by bold innovations and a thirst for futuristic allure. This period coincided with a burgeoning fascination with technology and the mysteries of the cosmos, themes that were prominently showcased at the 1933 World's Fair in Chicago. The Fair's theme, "A Century of Progress," celebrated technological advancements and envisioned a future filled with limitless possibilities. It was against this backdrop of progress and forward-thinking that Parfums Caron introduced "Adastra."

The name "Adastra," derived from the Latin "Ad Astra," meaning "to the stars," perfectly encapsulated the era's fascination with the future and the unknown. Choosing such a name for a perfume was both visionary and evocative. It suggested a fragrance that was not just an olfactory experience but a journey into the cosmos, an exploration of new frontiers. Ernest Daltroff, the creative genius behind Caron, likely envisioned Adastra as a scent that would transcend earthly boundaries, inviting wearers to dream and aspire towards the stars.

Adastra was more than just a name; it was a promise of adventure and aspiration. The concept of reaching for the stars resonated deeply during a time when society was captivated by the potential of scientific progress and exploration. This perfume would have appealed to individuals who were dreamers and visionaries, those who looked to the future with hope and ambition. Adastra symbolized a break from tradition, offering a fragrance that mirrored the innovative spirit of the age.

The word "Adastra" evokes images of vast, star-studded skies and the uncharted expanses of space. It conjures feelings of wonder, ambition, and limitless potential. For those who wore Adastra, it would have been a sensory reminder of their own aspirations and the endless possibilities that lay ahead. The name suggests a fragrance that is both ethereal and grounded in the quest for discovery, making it a perfect companion for those who dared to dream big.



Naming a perfume "Adastra" in 1936 was a bold and unique choice. It stood out in an industry that often leaned towards more traditional and romantic names. By choosing a name that literally means "to the stars," Caron positioned Adastra as a forward-thinking and innovative fragrance, perfectly in tune with the futuristic aspirations of the time. It was not out of touch but rather a reflection of the zeitgeist, capturing the essence of an era that celebrated progress and the exploration of new frontiers.

Adastra by Caron, created by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, was not just a fragrance; it was a symbol of an era defined by progress and a quest for the unknown. Launched in 1936 and showcased at the 1939 World's Fair, Adastra embodied the spirit of reaching for the stars, resonating with those who envisioned a future of endless possibilities. The name itself evoked powerful imagery and emotions, making it a unique and timely choice for a perfume that promised to take its wearers on a celestial journey.


Fragrance Composition:


So what did it smell like? It was classified as a green, chypre floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, green notes
  • Middle notes: jasmine, carnation, rose, tuberose
  • Base notes: oakmoss, ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, tonka, labdanum

A Unique Launch:


Drug & Cosmetic Industry - Volume 45, 1939:

"Perfumes of Tomorrow. It is an unusual move for a major line to introduce three new perfumes at the same time, but Caron felt that a big effort had to be made if the perfume business was to be taken out of novelty packaging and brought back to its proper level of artistry, beauty and luxury where it belongs. Caron's presentation of the three perfumes is different and more luxurious than anything made so ar by the company. They are different from one another as each one is of a different inspiration and idea. The one illustrated is "Ad Astra" in a lovely bronze bottle, "Alpona" in a fan-like bottle and "Voeu de Noel" in a beautiful frosted bottle with embossed flowers. Caron is the only perfumer who took advantage of the World's Fair theme "World of Tomorrow " and will present perfumes in the French Pavilion at the New York World' Fair."

In 1939, the perfume industry was undergoing a significant transformation, and Caron was at the forefront of this evolution. As documented in the Drug & Cosmetic Industry Volume 45, Caron made an unprecedented move by introducing three new perfumes simultaneously. This bold strategy aimed to elevate the perfume business beyond mere novelty packaging and restore its essence as an art form characterized by beauty and luxury. The trio of new fragrances—"Ad Astra," "Alpona," and "Voeu de Noel"—each embodied distinct inspirations and ideas, marking a new era of sophistication for Caron.

Among these three, "Ad Astra" stood out not only for its name, derived from the Latin "to the stars," but also for its exquisite packaging. Encased in a lovely bronze bottle, "Ad Astra" embodied the futuristic theme of the time. This scent was presented as part of Caron's luxurious new line at the New York World's Fair, specifically within the French Pavilion. The Fair's theme, "World of Tomorrow," provided an ideal backdrop for Caron's vision of perfumes that transcended traditional norms and ventured into realms of artistry and opulence.

Accompanying "Ad Astra" were "Alpona" and "Voeu de Noel," each housed in equally captivating bottles that reflected their unique inspirations. "Alpona" came in a fan-like bottle, suggesting elegance and sophistication, while "Voeu de Noel," meaning "Christmas Wish," was presented in a frosted bottle adorned with embossed flowers, evoking a sense of festivity and warmth. Together, these fragrances showcased Caron's commitment to diverse and luxurious presentations, aiming to capture the imagination of their clientele and position themselves as leaders in the perfumery industry.

Harper's Bazaar - Volume 73, 1939:

"A new perfume from Caron called "Ad Astra," a fresh and romantic scent suitable for the excitement of a wedding day."

In its 1939 volume, Harper's Bazaar highlighted "Ad Astra" as a fresh and romantic scent, perfect for the excitement of a wedding day. This endorsement from a prestigious fashion magazine underscored the perfume's appeal to women looking for a fragrance that encapsulated the joyous and aspirational spirit of such a significant life event. The association with weddings and romance further cemented "Ad Astra" as a perfume that was not only futuristic but also deeply personal and emotionally resonant.

The name "Ad Astra" was particularly fitting for the period, as it evoked images of reaching for the stars, aligning perfectly with the World's Fair theme and the broader societal fascination with progress and the future. The emotional and visual imagery associated with "Ad Astra"—a journey to the stars, aspirations, dreams, and the excitement of new beginnings—made it an evocative and timely choice for a perfume name.

In conclusion, the introduction of "Ad Astra," along with "Alpona" and "Voeu de Noel," marked a pivotal moment for Caron in 1939. By embracing the futuristic themes of the World's Fair and focusing on luxurious, artistic presentations, Caron successfully redefined the perfume landscape, emphasizing the importance of beauty and artistry in perfumery. The name "Ad Astra" encapsulated the hopes and dreams of the era, making it a memorable and fitting addition to Caron's prestigious line of fragrances.


Bottles:


Presented in a spherical bottle with an entirely gilded surface, Adastra by Caron exemplifies the pinnacle of luxurious design and artistic craftsmanship. The bottle itself is a work of art, its gilded surface reflecting opulence and grandeur. This richness in design adds a touch of elegance to the overall presentation, seamlessly blending classical luxury with a modern aesthetic.

The crowning glory of the Adastra bottle is its unique stopper. Shaped like a stylized sun with rays, the disk-shaped ground glass stopper is also entirely gilded, adding to the bottle's regal appearance. This sun motif is not just decorative but symbolic, evoking themes of light, warmth, and aspiration—perfectly aligned with the name "Adastra," meaning "to the stars." The stopper, designed with meticulous attention to detail, reflects the artistic vision of Felicie Vanpouille, the designer behind this exquisite creation.

Felicie Vanpouille, known for her exceptional talent in bottle design, has truly outdone herself with Adastra. Her design captures the essence of the perfume's name and inspiration, translating it into a tangible form that exudes elegance and sophistication. The spherical shape of the bottle, combined with the intricate gilded enamel and the radiant sun stopper, showcases Vanpouille's ability to merge artistic creativity with functional design. Her work on Adastra stands as a testament to her skill and vision, elevating the perfume to a level of luxury that few other fragrances can match.

The design of Adastra's bottle is not just about aesthetics; it also serves as a symbol of the luxurious and forward-thinking spirit of the 1930s. The entirely gilded surface reflects the era's fascination with both timeless elegance and modern innovation. The sun-shaped stopper, with its rays extending outward, further emphasizes the theme of reaching for the stars and embracing the future. This blend of tradition and innovation makes Adastra's bottle a perfect representation of the perfume's essence and the period in which it was created.

For those who encountered Adastra at the 1939 World's Fair or in exclusive boutiques, the bottle itself was likely an object of desire. Its intricate design and luxurious materials would have made it a standout piece on any vanity, a conversation starter, and a symbol of refined taste. The tactile experience of holding the spherical bottle, feeling the weight of the gilded surface and admiring the radiant sun stopper, would have been as memorable as the fragrance contained within.

In summary, the presentation of Adastra by Caron in a spherical bottle with an entirely gilded surface, topped with a sun-shaped gilded stopper, designed by Felicie Vanpouille, is a masterful blend of artistry and luxury. This design not only enhances the perfume's appeal but also encapsulates the spirit of aspiration and elegance that defined the era, making Adastra a timeless symbol of beauty and sophistication.

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:
"The golden globe at the left of it holds a new perfume by Caron called "Ad Astra," [sic] a fresh and romantic scent suitable for the excitement of a wedding day."












Fate of the Fragrance:


Ad Astra by Caron, despite its discontinuation (date unknown), remains a coveted piece of perfume history. Still available for purchase as late as 1941, its legacy endures through the iconic design of its luxuriously gilded bottle. This bottle is not merely a vessel for fragrance but a work of art eagerly sought after by collectors of both perfume bottles and World's Fair memorabilia alike.

The bottle of Ad Astra, adorned with intricate gilded detailing, represents the epitome of luxury and craftsmanship from the 1930s. Its design, crafted to reflect opulence and sophistication, captivates collectors with its historical significance and aesthetic beauty. As a relic from the World's Fair era, these bottles are rare finds today, often commanding high prices when they appear on the market.

For collectors, acquiring an Ad Astra bottle is more than just adding to a collection; it's owning a piece of art and history. These bottles, with their scarcity and sought-after design, hold a special place in the hearts of enthusiasts who appreciate the blend of artistic flair and functional elegance that characterized perfume bottle design during this period.

Given their rarity and the high demand among collectors, those interested in Ad Astra bottles are advised to seize the opportunity if one arises. These bottles not only encapsulate the allure of vintage perfumery but also symbolize an era of innovation and elegance that continues to captivate aficionados today.

In conclusion, the gilded bottle of Ad Astra by Caron stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of luxury and artistry in perfumery. Its association with the World's Fair and its exquisite design make it a prized possession for collectors who value both beauty and historical significance. As these bottles become increasingly rare, their allure only grows stronger, ensuring that they remain cherished artifacts in the world of perfume and beyond.


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