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Friday, March 8, 2013

Chantecler by Caron c1906

In 1906, the time period surrounding the launch of Chantecler by Caron was marked by a fascination with literary and theatrical themes. The name "Chantecler" itself derives from Edmond Rostand's play of the same name, where a rooster (Chantecler) believes his crowing brings forth the sun. This play was a significant cultural phenomenon, blending whimsical anthropomorphism with deeper philosophical themes.

Parfums Caron's choice of "Chantecler" as a perfume name likely aimed to capitalize on the play's popularity and its evocation of natural beauty and charm. In the early 20th century, perfumes often drew inspiration from literature and theater, aligning with the romantic and artistic sensibilities of the time. "Chantecler" would have resonated with individuals familiar with Rostand's work, evoking imagery of a proud, vibrant rooster heralding the dawn—a symbol of optimism, awakening, and the natural world.

For those who related to this perfume, it would have sparked associations with the play's themes of beauty, nature, and the magic of everyday life. The name itself suggests a perfume that promises to awaken the senses, much like how Chantecler's crowing is believed to bring forth the morning light.





Emotionally, "Chantecler" evokes feelings of freshness, vitality, and perhaps a touch of theatrical whimsy. It captures the essence of a new day, filled with promise and the beauty of the natural world awakening. For its time, the name was not out of touch but rather aligned perfectly with the romantic and literary trends of early 20th-century Europe, where perfumery often drew inspiration from art, literature, and mythology.

In conclusion, "Chantecler" by Caron was a well-chosen name that encapsulated the spirit of its era, blending literary charm with the allure of fragrance, appealing to those who appreciated both the artistic and sensory experiences it promised.

Product Line:


The availability of Chantecler by Caron in three distinct products catered to varying preferences and occasions, ensuring its appeal reached a broad audience. The parfum, the most concentrated form, offered a luxurious experience with its rich and long-lasting fragrance. This version would have appealed to connoisseurs and those who preferred a more intense olfactory presence, perfect for special evenings or events where a lasting impression was desired.

In contrast, the lotion, akin to an eau de toilette, provided a lighter application, ideal for everyday use. This formulation maintained the essence of Chantecler but in a more subtle and refreshing manner, suitable for daytime wear or as a refreshing touch throughout the day. The lotion format would have been popular among individuals seeking a delicate, lingering scent that complemented their daily routine without overpowering.

Additionally, the sachet offered a unique way to experience Chantecler, presenting the fragrance in a form designed for imparting scent to linens, closets, or personal items. Sachets were favored for their ability to infuse subtle fragrance into fabrics, enhancing the ambiance of living spaces or adding a personal touch to one's wardrobe.

Each product variation of Chantecler by Caron thus catered to different sensory and practical preferences, ensuring that the fragrance could be enjoyed in various ways to suit both personal style and occasion. This diverse product lineup underscored Caron's commitment to offering fragrance enthusiasts a comprehensive and versatile olfactory experience tailored to their lifestyle and preferences.







Bottle:

The bottle design for Caron's "Chantecler," designed by Felicie Vanpouille and possibly executed by Henri Hamm, exemplifies the exquisite craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibilities of its time. Made from molded colorless pressed glass, the bottle's cubic form with curved side walls and a round neck evokes a sense of elegance and sophistication. Its quatrefoil cushion-shaped ground glass stopper adds a touch of intricacy and refinement, ensuring a secure closure while enhancing the overall visual appeal.


A defining feature of the bottle is its embossed gold label adorned with the image of a crowing rooster, directly referencing the play "Chantecler" by Edmond Rostand. This artistic detail not only pays homage to the literary inspiration behind the perfume but also imbues the packaging with a sense of narrative and charm. The rooster motif symbolizes dawn, awakening, and vitality, aligning perfectly with the perfume's thematic essence of freshness and natural beauty.



Standing at a height of 10cm, the bottle's compact size suggests a design that balances practicality with aesthetic allure, making it both a functional vessel for the perfume and a decorative piece worthy of display. To complement its luxurious presentation, Chantecler was housed in a leather-covered presentation box, adding an extra layer of elegance and protection. This attention to detail in packaging underscores Caron's commitment to offering not just a fragrance, but a complete sensory and visual experience that appeals to discerning perfume enthusiasts and collectors alike.

In conclusion, the design of the "Chantecler" bottle by Caron, with its intricate glasswork, symbolic embellishments, and luxurious presentation box, encapsulates the artistry and elegance of early 20th-century perfumery. It stands as a testament to the fusion of fragrance with visual aesthetics, creating a product that is both a sensory delight and a work of art in its own right.


Toilettes, Volume 34, 1912:
"Caron is another Parisian whose fame was established by the Parfum Chantecler ($4.50) last season, and his Mimosa ($6.50) and Tilleul Ambre ($8) are both exquisite scents. The Caron Pompons are a decided novelty, these being small individual powder puffs, fifty in a box. ..."

 

Chemist and Druggist, 1915:
"PARFUMERIE CARON - Arthur H. Cox & Co Ltd., Brighton, have been appointed sole British agents for the firm of Parfumerie Caron, 10 Rue de la Paix, Paris, and carry stock of their exquisite products, which include perfumes and face powders with the distinctive names: Chantecler, Elegancia, Infini, Isadora, Mimosa, Mode 1915-1916, Modernis, Narcisse Caron, Narcisse Noir, Petit Mimosa, Rarissime, Rose Précieuse, and Violette Précieuse. These appeal to the refined and the rich, and although the prices are high, there is value for the money in quality and style. For example, Petit Mimosa is a fine, enduring, and subtle perfume, put up in a quaint shaped stoppered bottle, the stopper of which is secured with gilt wire, and the label is an embossed gilt metal disc cemented to the front. It is enclosed in a lemon coloured case, and retails at 10s 9d off which the retailer gets a liberal discount. Messrs Cox have an illustrated circular about the products, a copy of which will be sent to any of our readers who asks them for it. It is a model circular." 







Fate of the Fragrance:


The discontinuation of Caron's "Chantecler," though the exact date is unknown, marks the end of an era for this iconic fragrance that once graced the shelves of perfume enthusiasts. Despite its cessation, the perfume maintained a lasting presence in the market, being notably listed among a distinguished lineup of other Caron fragrances in 1929. This period was characterized by a rich diversity of scents, each bearing its own unique allure and capturing the essence of its time.

Alongside "Chantecler," the catalog of Caron's offerings in 1929 included a captivating array of names such as Affolant, Bel Amour, Elegancia, Isadora, and more. Each fragrance represented a distinct olfactory journey, crafted to resonate with different preferences and moods of its discerning clientele. From the delicate floral notes of Rose Precieuse and Violette Precieuse to the rich, evocative blend of Le Tabac Blond, Caron's collection epitomized the artistry and sophistication synonymous with French perfumery.

The inclusion of "Chantecler" in this lineup suggests that even after its discontinuation, the fragrance continued to hold a place in the hearts of perfume aficionados. Its presence among esteemed companions like Nuit de Noel, Narcisse Noir, and Infini underscores its significance within the broader narrative of Caron's aromatic legacy.

Despite no longer being in production, "Chantecler" and its counterparts evoke a sense of nostalgia and admiration for an era when perfumery was both an art and a statement of personal style. These fragrances, with their enduring appeal and timeless charm, continue to inspire and resonate with collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the beauty of scent as a form of art and self-expression.

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