Voeu de Noel by Caron c1939

Launched in 1939, Voeu de Noel by Caron is a captivating floral oriental fragrance for women, crafted by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff. This perfume emerged during a period rich with innovation and elegance in the fragrance world. The late 1930s were a time when the art of perfumery was deeply intertwined with the evolving trends in fashion and luxury. The era was characterized by a preference for opulent and complex fragrances, often blending floral and oriental notes to create sophisticated and multi-layered scent profiles. Voeu de Noel, with its floral oriental composition, aligns with this trend while offering a distinctive touch through its rose-centric formulation.

The name Voeu de Noel translates to "Christmas Wish" in English. This choice of name reflects a sentiment of hope and celebration, which was particularly poignant in the context of the late 1930s. The period was marked by a sense of anticipation and renewal as the world emerged from the uncertainties of the pre-war years. By naming the fragrance Voeu de Noel, Caron evoked images of festive cheer, romance, and the warmth of the holiday season. The name suggests a fragrance that embodies the spirit of giving and the joy of celebration, aligning with the emotional resonance associated with Christmas.

The choice of this name was quite unique for its time, as it directly connected the perfume to a specific holiday theme, which was less common in the industry. This thematic naming would have been evocative, appealing to consumers' desires for luxury and festive spirit. Voeu de Noel thus stood out as a distinct offering among its contemporaries, which often had names focused on abstract or exotic concepts rather than seasonal or emotionally charged themes.

In terms of cultural context, the late 1930s saw a variety of artistic and cinematic themes that resonated with notions of elegance and celebration. Films of the era, such as those showcasing glamorous holiday settings or romantic narratives, would have mirrored the kind of festive allure embodied by Voeu de Noel. The perfume's name and its association with a joyful occasion like Christmas would have been interpreted as a symbol of refined taste and seasonal luxury, making it a memorable and distinctive choice in the perfume market of the time.

Origin:

In 1939, the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff created a striking rose-based fragrance named Voeu de Noel (Christmas Wish) for Caron. This perfume was unveiled at the 1939 World's Fair alongside two other distinguished fragrances from the Caron collection, Alpona and Adastra. Voeu de Noel was showcased in a beautiful bottle adorned with embossed flowers, reflecting the elegance and artistry that Caron sought to convey with this launch. The presentation of these perfumes at the World's Fair highlighted Caron's commitment to elevating the perfume industry from mere novelty to a realm of true artistry and luxury.

There has been some confusion regarding the name Rose de Noel. Contrary to popular belief, this was not a later renaming of Voeu de Noel in 1946. An investigation into historical records, including a 1939 issue of Drug & Cosmetic Industry magazine, reveals that Rose de Noel was actually a typographical error or misinterpretation of Voeu de Noel. The original name, Voeu de Noel, was used consistently in official documentation and marketing materials from the time of its launch. The magazine’s reference to Voeu de Noel confirms its correct usage, aligning with Caron's intended branding and presentation.

In a detailed account from Drug & Cosmetic Industry, Volume 45, Page 185, Caron’s ambitious move to introduce three new perfumes simultaneously was described as a bold effort to restore the perfume industry’s focus on artistry and luxury. The magazine highlighted the distinctiveness of each fragrance, noting Voeu de Noel for its beautiful frosted bottle with embossed floral details, in contrast to the unique packaging of Ad Astra and Alpona. This introduction was part of Caron’s strategy to reassert perfume as an art form and to offer consumers a more sophisticated and luxurious experience.

Drug & Cosmetic Industry - Volume 45 - Page 185:

"Perfumes of Tomorrow. It is an unusual move for a major line to introduce three new perfumes at the same time, but Caron felt that a big effort had to be made if the perfume business was to be taken out of novelty packaging and brought back to its proper level of artistry, beauty and luxury where it belongs. Caron's presentation of the three perfumes is different and more luxurious than anything made so far by the company. They are different from one another as each one is of a different inspiration and idea. the one "Ad Astra" in a lovely bronze bottle, "Alpona" in a fan-like bottle and "Voeu de Noel" in a beautiful frosted bottle with embossed flowers."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Voeu de Noel is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: bergamot, lilac, hyacinth
• Middle notes: rose absolute, carnation, violet, jasmine, incense
• Base notes: incense, oakmoss, spices, sandalwood, ambergris, labdanum, tonka bean, musk, vanilla

Voeu de Noel is celebrated for its luxurious blend of incense and rose, creating a scent profile that is both opulent and captivating. This fragrance skillfully marries elements from two other distinguished Caron creations, Nuit de Noel and Or et Noir, both of which share the same signature Caronade accord. The Caronade is known for its rich and complex composition, featuring a harmonious blend of Bulgarian roses, jasmine, mimosa, orange blossom, and ylang ylang. This accord imparts a classic and deeply feminine character to Voeu de Noel, contributing to its reputation as a masterful floral oriental fragrance.

At the heart of Voeu de Noel, the sumptuous incense adds a smoky, resinous depth, intertwining with the dusty rose notes to create a warm and inviting bouquet. The use of carnations in the top notes introduces a spicy, slightly peppery quality, providing an intriguing contrast to the sweet floral elements. The inclusion of additional notes such as violet and sweet woods further enriches the fragrance, adding layers of complexity and depth. The spices interwoven into the composition contribute a subtle warmth, enhancing the overall sensuality of the perfume.

The de Laire Mousse de Saxe base plays a crucial role in defining the character of Voeu de Noel. This base, known for its mossy, leathery, and slightly licorice-like aroma, adds a unique and sophisticated touch. It provides a rich, earthy foundation that complements the floral and incense notes, creating a well-rounded and enduring scent experience. Together with the Caronade and other precious ingredients, the Mousse de Saxe base ensures that Voeu de Noel is a fragrance that exudes elegance and depth, making it a truly exceptional addition to any vintage perfume collection.

Voeu de Noel is a distinguished example of how the de Laire "Mousse de Saxe" base was used to craft rich, complex perfumes. This base, integral to many classic fragrances, imparts a distinctive character to the composition. The "Mousse de Saxe accord" includes a blend of geranium, licorice, isobutyl quinoline, iodine, and vanillin. This unique combination creates a scent profile that is both deeply evocative and remarkably sophisticated.

Isobutyl quinoline, the core of the Mousse de Saxe base, contributes a mossy, leathery quality with a nuanced, liquorice-like aroma. When I tested a 1930s bottle of the Mousse de Saxe base, the fragrance revealed a smoky, dusty moss scent, accentuated by a subtle hint of sweetness and a touch of incense. This rich, layered aroma reflects the base's ability to add depth and warmth to a fragrance, making it ideal for creating oriental, amber, or oakmoss-type perfumes.

Mousse de Saxe has been a key ingredient in several notable perfumes, influencing the scent profiles of early Caron creations by Ernest Daltroff, such as Nuit de Noel and Or et Noir. It has also graced the formulations of iconic fragrances from Guerlain, including L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, and Shalimar. Additionally, it was utilized in Chantilly and Presence by Houbigant, as well as Habanita by Molinard. Jean Kerléo even mentioned its presence in Le Chic by Molyneux and possibly in Chanel’s Bois des Iles. For those who appreciate the luxurious depth of these vintage scents, Voeu de Noel offers a similarly rich olfactory experience, making it a worthy addition to any fragrance collection that values classic, opulent compositions.

 

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Voeu de Noel by Caron: New Year's Eve has left some of its lights in an opaline bottle while the Yule log is consumed in gold flakes. She adds a note of floral undergrowth whose smell, evocative of future springs, suddenly fills the atmosphere like a wish for youth and eternal happiness."

A 1950's article from Australia's Sydney Morning Herald described Voeu de Noel as

"a heady fragrance with strong overtones of carnations, involving opulence and burnished colour as mental associations. Packed in opalescence for 23 and a half pounds."

"Voeu de Noel..a round opulent fragrance, whispering of carnation, and other indefinite and precious scents...in an unusually glamorous presentation...$45..."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Voeu de Noel, the top notes present a fresh and inviting introduction. The bergamot opens with its bright, zesty aroma, infusing a crisp citrus note that is both invigorating and uplifting. This is soon complemented by the lilac, which adds a soft, floral sweetness reminiscent of a blooming garden in early spring. The hyacinth further enhances the bouquet with its rich, heady fragrance, combining floral opulence with a touch of green freshness. Together, these top notes create a vibrant and engaging prelude to the deeper layers of the fragrance.

Transitioning to the heart of Voeu de Noel, the middle notes reveal a complex and enchanting floral tapestry. The rose absolute, with its velvety richness, brings a classic and luxurious depth to the fragrance, echoing the renowned Caronade accord. The carnation adds a spicy, slightly peppery edge, infusing the composition with a warm and intriguing intensity. Violet contributes a delicate, powdery sweetness that softens the floral blend, while the jasmine introduces a lush, sensual quality that deepens the heart of the perfume. The inclusion of incense weaves a smoky, resinous element into the middle notes, providing a mystical and aromatic backdrop that complements the floral richness.

As Voeu de Noel settles, the base notes emerge with a warm and earthy complexity. The incense, echoing the earlier notes, reinforces the fragrance’s spiritual and exotic character with its rich, aromatic smoke. Oakmoss adds a deep, forest-like earthiness, enhancing the perfume's base with a touch of natural depth. The blend of spices introduces a piquant warmth, which is balanced by the creamy, smooth sandalwood. Ambergris offers a golden, marine richness, adding a subtle, animalic nuance to the composition. Labdanum contributes a resinous, sweet depth, while the tonka bean imparts a vanilla-like sweetness that rounds out the base. Musk and vanilla provide a soft, sensual finish, enveloping the wearer in a comforting and lasting warmth.

Altogether, Voeu de Noel is a masterful creation that marries the floral and oriental elements seamlessly, creating a scent that is both sumptuous and evocative, with a complexity that reflects Caron’s dedication to perfume artistry.

Flacon:

The parfum bottle for Voeu de Noel is a stunning example of opalescent crystal craftsmanship, featuring a design that is both elegant and distinctive. The bottle is molded with a stylized double poppy flower motif, capturing a delicate yet bold floral elegance that reflects the perfume's luxurious nature. The opalescent crystal gives the bottle a shimmering quality, enhancing its visual appeal and making it a striking piece in any collection.

The stopper of the bottle is crafted from the same opalescent crystal as the body and is designed in an askew bar shape. This design choice adds a modern and slightly unconventional touch to the overall aesthetic. The stopper bears the name "Caron" inscribed in gold serigraphy, which adds a touch of sophistication and authenticity. This detail not only highlights the brand's signature but also contributes to the bottle's luxurious feel.

While there have been references in various books mistakenly attributing the bottle's design to Lalique, it is important to note that this particular bottle was actually designed by Félicie Vanpouille (formerly Felicie Bergaud). The manufacturing was carried out by Cristallerie de Romesnil in France, a distinguished producer known for its high-quality glassware. The base of the bottle features a paper label, adding a classic touch to the design and further cementing its historical value.

Overall, the Voeu de Noel bottle is a remarkable piece of perfume artistry, showcasing the intricate work of Félicie Vanpouille and the craftsmanship of Cristallerie de Romesnil. Its opalescent crystal construction, unique design elements, and detailed inscriptions make it a coveted collector's item and a beautiful representation of the perfume's luxurious heritage.

• 3.75" tall x 3.75" wide.
• 4" tall x 4.5" wide.

The large opalescent glass perfume bottle, measuring 3.5 inches tall and 3.5 inches wide, originally contained 2.9 ounces of parfum, though it was often rounded up to 3 ounces in advertisements. This bottle, emblematic of the luxury associated with Voeu de Noel, has long been a symbol of opulence. In 1957, a 3-ounce bottle of this exquisite fragrance retailed for $85, which, when adjusted for inflation, equates to approximately $967.57 in today's money. By 1960, the price had risen to $100, translating to around $1,072.27 in 2024.

Le Musée International de la Parfumerie

Another flacon, though just as rare, is the standard Baccarat flacon used for Caron's extraits such as Tabac Blond, N'Aimez Que Moi and Farnesiana. The stopper is molded with an intaglio of Caron in cursive script. Notice the silvery foil label that has a radiating design around the name of the perfume. This bottle design was created in 1925 for Caron. But I believe this bottle was used after WWII for Voeu de Noel instead of the expensive opalescent flacon. In 1939, Caron updated the packaging to reflect the 1939 New York World's Fair theme, The World of Tomorrow. The new foiled paper label has a modernized design of a radiant sun with the name "Le Parfum du Voeu de Noel."

• 4 oz Parfum

 

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Voeu de Noel has been discontinued for many years. In 1991, Caron released a deluxe special edition bottle made by Baccarat, exactly like the original..