French Can-Can by Caron c1936

In 1936, Parfums Caron launched "French Can-Can," a fragrance that captures the lively spirit of the famed Parisian dance. The 1930s were a time of both turmoil and innovation, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression influencing global economies and cultures. In France, the era was marked by a mix of political instability and artistic flourishing, where the allure of Paris as a center of culture and fashion remained undiminished.

The "French Can-Can" refers to a high-energy and risqué dance that originated in the 1830s in Parisian dance halls, particularly at the Moulin Rouge. It is characterized by its high kicks, splits, and cartwheels, performed to fast-paced music. The dance was both scandalous and thrilling, symbolizing the liberation and joie de vivre of Parisian nightlife. For Parfums Caron, choosing the name "French Can-Can" for their perfume was a strategic decision to evoke the vivacious and glamorous spirit of Paris. This name was designed to appeal particularly to American women, who were enchanted by the romantic and stylish image of Paris.

"French Can-Can" makes an excellent name for a perfume because it instantly conjures images of excitement, elegance, and bold femininity. The name suggests a fragrance that is lively, sensual, and unapologetically confident—qualities that resonate with the energetic and adventurous spirit of the dance. For women in the 1930s, especially American women, this name would evoke a sense of escapism and fantasy, transporting them to the vibrant dance halls of Paris where glamour and allure reigned supreme.

The perfume "French Can-Can" would have particularly appealed to women who sought to embody or experience the charm and sophistication associated with Parisian culture. These women would likely respond to the perfume with a sense of nostalgia and aspiration, desiring to capture some of the magic and allure of Paris in their everyday lives. The images evoked by the term "French Can-Can" include the bright lights of the Moulin Rouge, dancers in frilly skirts performing daring moves, and a general atmosphere of celebration and effervescence. The emotions tied to these images include excitement, joy, and a touch of rebellion.

As a name for a perfume, "French Can-Can" was unique and well-suited to the time period. It was not out of touch; rather, it tapped into the prevailing fascination with Parisian culture and the timeless allure of its nightlife. The fragrance, created by Ernest Daltroff, aimed to capture this essence and provide American women with a sensory link to the glamour and romance of Paris, offering them a piece of the city's spirit to wear and cherish.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a crisp white flower, floral-oriental fragrance for women, with dominant notes of a jasmine, lily of the valley, narcissus, lilac and violet. 

• Top notes: narcissus, jasmine, lilac and violet
• Middle notes:iris, orange blossom, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, rose and patchouli
• Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, orris and oakmoss

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"French CanCan by Caron: Audacious and warm. Dominant note: flowery. To belong to the elite of the cosmopolitan world. For her pleasure, or her business, she always has one foot in London, one in New York."

The Southern Pharmaceutical Journal, 1937:

"New creations in the perfume world are Lucien Lelong's “Impromptu," Bourjois' “Kobako," and Caron's “French Cancan." 

Sales Management - Volume 42, 1938:

"Caron has a perfume called "French Can-Can." The directions, I presume, are: "Shake well before using." 

Harper's Bazaar, 1956

""French Cancan" — a gay. flirty Parisian type, lighthearted yet haunting. By Caron. One and 1/2 ounces. $25."

Saturday Review, 1957:

"FRENCH CANCAN by Caron, perfume as gay and saucy as a Parisian midinette . . . brilliant sparkling for the new Fall ensemble, perfect complement for minks. 1/2 oz."

Scent Story:

In the bustling streets of 1939 Paris, amidst the echoes of approaching wartime, the Moulin Rouge pulses with life as evening descends. The air is crisp with the promise of spring, mingling the sweet scent of blooming jasmine and lilac with the faint hint of violet carried on a gentle breeze. As I approach the iconic red windmill, the lively strains of an accordion and the infectious rhythm of can-can music spill out into the cobbled courtyard, drawing me closer to the heart of Parisian nightlife.

Stepping inside, the atmosphere is a whirlwind of color and movement. Can-can dancers, their skirts swirling in vibrant hues of red, blue, and gold, kick high with exuberance, their laughter mingling with the applause of the enraptured audience. The scent of their perfume lingers in the air—a floral-oriental fragrance that captures the essence of femininity and allure. The jasmine and violet notes intertwine with the delicate sweetness of lilac, creating an intoxicating bouquet that envelops the room.

As I settle into a corner table, sipping on a glass of chilled champagne, I take in the scene around me. The dancers, adorned with feathers and lace, move with grace and precision, their movements synchronized to the beat of the music. Amidst the laughter and applause, the aroma of orange blossom and ylang-ylang wafts from bouquets tossed onto the stage, adding a layer of romance to the festive ambiance.

The taste of the champagne is crisp and effervescent, complementing the floral notes of the perfume lingering in the air. As I raise the glass to my lips, I feel the cool touch of crystal against my fingers, a sensory contrast to the warmth and energy that fills the room. The dance continues, each kick and twirl a testament to the spirited resilience of Parisian culture in uncertain times.

In the background, the base notes of sandalwood and ambergris begin to emerge, grounding the fragrance with a subtle earthiness. As the evening unfolds, I find myself captivated by the intricate blend of rose and patchouli, which adds depth and complexity to the floral bouquet. The scent evolves with each passing moment, mirroring the changing rhythms of the can-can dancers and the vibrant pulse of 1939 Paris.

As I bid farewell to the Moulin Rouge, the memory of that enchanted evening lingers—a sensory tapestry woven from the sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and textures of a bygone era. The crisp white flowers of "French Can-Can" linger on my skin, a reminder of the timeless allure and enduring elegance of Paris in its most dazzling moments.

Bottle:

"French Can-Can," launched in 1936, was not only a fragrance but a sensory journey encapsulated in a meticulously designed presentation. The bottle, crafted by Félicie Bergaud (née Vanpouille), reflected the elegance and vivacity associated with its name. Made of clear glass, the ovoid bottle was adorned with a delicate lace ruffle encircling its neck, adding a touch of femininity and allure. The square white stopper provided a contrast of simplicity against the intricate detailing of the bottle's design, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. This packaging aimed to capture the essence of the Can-Can dancers' flamboyant and spirited performances, translating their energy into a visual motif.

Accompanying this exquisite bottle was the fragrance itself, available in multiple forms to cater to varying preferences and occasions. Initially, "French Can-Can" could be enjoyed in Parfum (Extrait, Extract), offering a concentrated and long-lasting scent experience ideal for special occasions. The Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne variants provided lighter options for daily wear, each retaining the essence of the original fragrance but with differing intensities and longevity. For a luxurious bath experience, the Bath Oil allowed enthusiasts to indulge in the scent's opulence while pampering their skin.

As time progressed, the availability of "French Can-Can" evolved to focus on the Parfum (Extrait, Extract) and Eau de Parfum formulations. These choices continued to cater to discerning tastes, ensuring that the fragrance's essence remained accessible in concentrated and wearable forms suitable for modern preferences. Despite these changes, the allure of "French Can-Can" persisted, upheld by its rich history and enduring appeal, making it a timeless choice for those captivated by the romance and elegance of Parisian culture encapsulated in a bottle.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1936:

"French Cancan," the new line of the perfumers Caron, is packed in a round, long -necked, crystal flask, patterned with Baccarat cutting. This is sold in a smart cardboard container, quilted on the inside."

The New Yorker, 1937:

"Caron's French Can Can, with a frill of lace around its neck, is coy femininity rampant, too."

The New Yorker, 1937:

"Caron's latest, French Can-Can, makes complete strangers come up and beg you for the formula of your charm, even when they haven't seen the bottle, which has a little frill of Val lace around the neck. The scent is tantalizing."

Fate of the Fragrance:

"French Can-Can" by Parfums Caron has had a tumultuous journey through time, reflecting its enduring popularity and the challenges of production and distribution. Originally launched in 1936, the fragrance enjoyed a period of success alongside other iconic Caron creations like Nuit de Noël, Fleurs de Rocaille, Bellodgia, Muguet du Bonheur, Pois de Senteur, and Tabac Blond. Despite its initial acclaim, the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain, but records show it was still available as late as 1968 in select markets.

In 1983, "French Can-Can" was among several classic Caron fragrances that saw a revival, a testament to its continued allure and nostalgic appeal. Alongside Acaciosa, Pois de Senteur, En Avion, Vœu de Noël, N'Aimez Que Moi, and With Pleasure, it was reintroduced to delight new generations of perfume enthusiasts. This relaunch aimed to capture the essence of vintage perfumery while adapting to contemporary tastes.

However, the fragrance faced another period of discontinuation, only to be revived once more around 1999-2000. This resurgence reflected ongoing efforts to preserve Caron's legacy and satisfy persistent demand from devoted fans. The 2011 reformulation marked a significant update, incorporating modern ingredients while retaining the essence that made "French Can-Can" a cherished classic.

Interestingly, enthusiasts noted variations between the American-imported version and the French-made edition sold exclusively in Europe. This discrepancy stemmed from regulatory differences affecting alcohol quality in perfumery production. European formulations adhered to stricter standards, using potable alcohol, which potentially influenced the fragrance's scent profile compared to the American version, known for its harsher alcohol and additives.

Despite its complex history of discontinuations and relaunches, "French Can-Can" endures as a beloved fragrance with a rich legacy in the world of perfumery. Its ability to adapt to changing times while maintaining its distinctive character underscores its timeless appeal and cultural significance.