Or et Noir by Caron: launched in 1949. Pronounced "OR-AY-NWAR", the name means "gold and black" in French. Created by Michel Morsetti, in homage to Ernest Daltroff and the tradition of Parfums Caron.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich, spicy floral oriental fragrance for women with a dominant rose and sharp rose geranium note. Warm and spicy oriental deep rose.
The New Yorker, 1949:
Cue, 1951:
Fodor's France, 1951:
Presented in a bottle designed by Félicie Vanpouille and Paul Ternat, originally used in 1910 for the perfume La Rose Precieuse, and manufactured by Cristallerie de Pantin and later by Choisy le Roy and Baccarat. The bottle has a square base, an oval body with curved belly, ending it a square neck, topped by a crystal stopper molded with two bees and entirely gilded in thick gold enamel. Other variations of the bottle exist including a bottle sans gilding and a bottle entirely covered with the thick gold enamel.
If your bottle is missing it's label, you can use the handy guide below to figure out what capacity your bottle is:
Esquire, 1950:
This beautiful 1949 photograph shows Arlene Dahl and friends with two VERY large gilded Or et Noir.
Discontinued, date unknown.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich, spicy floral oriental fragrance for women with a dominant rose and sharp rose geranium note. Warm and spicy oriental deep rose.
- Top notes: Bulgarian rose, Taif rose, rose geranium, Nossi-Be ylang ylang
- Middle notes: centafolia rose, Anatolian rose, lilac, white lily and carnation
- Base notes: oakmoss, woody notes and amber
The New Yorker, 1949:
"Caron has two other new scents that have a liberal hint of rose: "Or et Noir", which has sharp rose-geranium overtones, and "With Pleasure", which is a softer affair. Both fetch exalted prices."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Or et Noir by Caron: In its night-colored case, the rich bottle is adorned with the expected but sumptuous charm of a gold and black jewel. An elegant and sumptuous fragrance escapes like a royal party that dominates you in sovereign odor."
Cue, 1951:
"Then there's Caron's "Or et Noir". When first sampled, it seems to have overtones of rose. But in a few minutes these notes fade, leaving a warm floral blend. At some stores, $2.50 per dram."
Fodor's France, 1951:
" Caron, 10, Rue de la Paix. "Fleurs de Rocaille" — fresh, gay ; "La fete des Roses" — youthful, lasting ; "Or et Noir" — elegant, sumptuous ; "Vœu de Noel", "With Pleasure"— fruity."
Bottles:
Presented in a bottle designed by Félicie Vanpouille and Paul Ternat, originally used in 1910 for the perfume La Rose Precieuse, and manufactured by Cristallerie de Pantin and later by Choisy le Roy and Baccarat. The bottle has a square base, an oval body with curved belly, ending it a square neck, topped by a crystal stopper molded with two bees and entirely gilded in thick gold enamel. Other variations of the bottle exist including a bottle sans gilding and a bottle entirely covered with the thick gold enamel.
If your bottle is missing it's label, you can use the handy guide below to figure out what capacity your bottle is:
- stands 5" tall.
- stands 4.5" tall.
- stands 4.25" tall.
- 1.056 oz stands 3.25" tall.
Esquire, 1950:
"THE MAN IN THE MONEY need look no further if a fabulous French perfume can make the grade for him with his lady. The case, like the name Or et Noir, is black and gold ; the rounded gold glass bottle is set jewel-like in velvet. And the fragrance is the kind that is likely to assist in keeping you within close range of a gal wearing it."
This beautiful 1949 photograph shows Arlene Dahl and friends with two VERY large gilded Or et Noir.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
I believe it was reformulated and reissued in 2000.
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