Nocturnes by Caron c1980

Nocturnes by Caron: launched in Europe in May of 1980. Introduced to the USA in September 1981.  

Caron, known for a line of perfumes including Bellodgia, introduced Nocturnes de Caron, its first new perfume since Infini in 1970. The English translation of the word “Nocturne," is “nocturnal, nightly; of night”. Created by Roger Pellégrino of Firmenich. The fragrance reportedly took ten years of blending to get it just right.

It was sold at higher end department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, B. Altman, Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue, Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman and Macys.

Curiously during the USA introduction, a complimentary sample bottle was given away to diners at these swanky French New York restaurants: Le Chantilly, Le Perigord, Lutece, La Lavandou, La Caravelle, and La Côté Basque.

 

Texas Monthly, 1982:

""Give her Nocturnes. Give her the night." Nocturnes. Parfum par Caron : une nouvelle sensation de Paris. Available at Neiman Marcus."

Texas Monthly, 1985:

"Nocturnes de Caron Nocturnes de Caron. The fragrance of a thousand flowers drifts in a whisper. As each descends, it strikes a single note. Slowly. . . softly. . . the music begins. Romantic, languid sounds that beckon. Nocturnes de Caron. Let the dream play on."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was originally classified as an aldehydic woody floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a radiant cool floral heart, resting on a sweet, powdery, feminine base. It is a blend of over 80 ingredients including stephanotis, opulent rose, precious night blooming jasmine, heady tuberose and ylang ylang essences. It was described by its creators as a "flowery and fragile fragrance..blooms with a woody, spicy warm combination, touched by a sensual hint of amber."

• Top notes: aldehydes, leafy green notes, fruity note, bergamot and mandarin
• Middle notes: Grecian stephanotis, ylang ylang, lily, orris, rose, tuberose, lily of the valley, night blooming jasmine, and cyclamen
• Base notes: spices, vetiver, benzoin, musk, ambergris, vanilla and sandalwood

It was originally available in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum Purse Spray (retailed for $45 in 1981)
• 0.25 oz Parfum Purse Spray Refill (retailed for $27 in 1981)

• 0.25 oz Parfum (retailed for $45 in 1981)
• 0.5 oz Parfum (retailed for $80 in 1981)
• 1 oz Parfum (retailed for $130 in 1981)

• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $28 in 1981)
• 3.38 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $45 in 1981)
• 6.76 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $70 in 1981)

• 0.84 oz Eau de Toilette Spray (retailed for $12.50 in 1983)
• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Spray (retailed for 28 in 1981)
• 3.38 oz Eau de Toilette Spray (retailed for $45 in 1981)

• 3.38 oz Cologne Fraiche Splash (retailed for $15 in 1984)
• Goldtone Perfume Pendant (1984)

By 1983, an ancillary line was added to complement the fragrance:

• Perfumed Dusting Powder (Body powder; a perfumed cloud that is the definitive touch of refinement that you can give to your body)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Creme (a delicate phyto-biological complex, rich in natural oils. ultra-crealy texture lightly scented with the fragrance of Nocturnes. Applied generously, Nocturnes Perfumed Body Creme softens, moisturizes and helps to firm the most delicate skin)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Lotion (Body lotion; a veil of flowers that enhances the appearance of the skin)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Bath Gelee
• Perfumed Soap (Perfumed soap to cover her body with the delicate and aphrodisiac floral fragrance of Nocturnes)
• Moisture Spray Bath Oil
• Les Scintillantes Perfumed Sparkling Gel (1985)

 

"Nocturnes is a floral, rose, jasmine, tuberose parfum that expands into a mixture of woods, spices, hot and amber that leaves a trace of sensuality in its wake. Perfume of the sunset and the night, Nocturnes is dressed in black, a glass flower and a spherical cabochon enhance the beauty of the bottle, displayed in a sumptuous velvet case decorated with a colorful oil painting miniature. When morning comes, to make it seem like sleep, Nocturnes becomes toilet water, presented in a vaporizer and bottle for the day."

Bottles:

Originally housed in a tall, clear glass bottle molded with a stylized flower, covered by a black plastic case, and fitted with a crystal ball glass stopper, designed by Pierre Dinand in 1981. The bottle was made by Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by TPI-AMS. It is wrapped within a glossy black rectangular package echoing the shape and color of the bottle, dominated by a reproduction of an original oil painting by Russian artist Melina Tochelietch.

Also came in a clear example, without the black case, but has a black top, this held the Eau de Toilette splash and spray. The little parfum bottle mimics the look of the clear, tall bottle, but it doesn't have the black case over it.

These vintage (original formula) examples were sold in black boxes decorated with a small square with a colorful abstract design) on the front.

Note: the Cologne Fraiche was housed in a white box with the little square towards the top of the box.

Also presented in a limited edition crystal flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat, design #838.

 New York Magazine, 1983:

"PARFUMS CARON, MONTAIGNE BOUTIQUE Above, an original creation in Baccarat crystal. • A bottle designed exclusively for our Caron boutique. Custom labeled signed and numbered Filled with Bellodgia or Nocturnes perfume, 250.00. Another jewel of inspiration from Caron's splendid heritage, 1/6 oz Nocturnes perfume rests inside stunningly gilded "dog collar" box. $12.50"

Nocturnes was originally available in the following:

• 1/2 oz Parfum
• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette mini
• 1 oz Eau de Toilette
• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette (introduced by 1986)
• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Spray (introduced by 1986)
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette
• 6.6 oz Eau de Toilette (limited edition)
• 0.33 fl. oz Cologne Fraiche mini
• 3.3 oz Cologne Fraiche
• 7 oz Dusting Powder (introduced by 1986)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Lotion (introduced by 1986)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Shower Gel (introduced by 1986)
• Perfume Stick for handbag (introduced by 1986)

Discontinued in 1996.

“NOCTURNES” Reissue bottle, in Baccarat crystal, body decorated with two blooming flowers in relief. Signed under the base “Baccarat”. Titled tassel label. Stopper titled in gold letters.  In its trimmings box, interior in pink satin, titled. Limited edition series. 3.85" tall.

First Reformulation:

Reformulated by Gerard Lefort in 1999 and relaunched as an eau de toilette.

The bottles sold from 1999 til 2003? had a slightly modified look for the boxes, the boxes were still black, but the top portion of the box had the abstract motif below an azure blue band.

• Top notes: bergamot, mandarin and lily of the valley.
• Middle notes are: rose, orris and jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, amber and vetiver

This version was was presented in the clear, dimpled glass, oval spray bottle with the golden cap, known as the peppercorn flacon due to it previously being used for the perfume Poivre (pepper). These bottles are packaged in white boxes with gold polka dots and the labels have the same color scheme. Available in sizes 1.7 and 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette.

By 2011, the peppercorn flacon was presented in a purple box with polka dots and the label on the bottles had the same color scheme. Available in sizes 1.7 and 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette. Also, a limited edition  was released, a 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette spray in a case that imitated the look of shagreen.

Second Reformulation:

Reformulated and relaunched in new packaging in 2013 and presented as an eau de parfum.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, orange, green notes, mandarin orange and bergamot 
• Middle notes: cyclamen, tuberose, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose 
• Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver