Nuit de Noël, launched by Parfums Caron in 1922, evokes a sense of mystery, romance, and nostalgia, and the name itself is rich with evocative imagery. Translated from French, "Nuit de Noël" means "Christmas Night" (pronounced nwee duh no-el). The phrase conjures images of a magical winter evening, a silent, snow-dusted night illuminated by soft candlelight, perhaps in a grand home where families and friends gather to celebrate. The reference to Christmas night adds an air of festivity and intimacy, invoking feelings of warmth, indulgence, and celebration. It’s a name that suggests a special, sacred moment, one filled with opulence and comfort, but also a subtle, deeper mystery—a reflection of the perfume’s own complexities.
The perfume was launched during a time when society was emerging from the devastation of World War I, entering what would come to be known as the Roaring Twenties, a period defined by luxury, excess, and an air of liberation. In fashion, women were moving away from the restrictive garments of the Victorian and Edwardian eras, embracing the more boyish, sleek styles introduced by designers like Coco Chanel. The flapper look, with its short skirts and bobbed hair, epitomized a new sense of freedom and modernity. Yet, even as society advanced, the lingering influence of earlier aristocratic traditions, particularly around Christmas celebrations, still held sway. Nuit de Noël was not just a fragrance—it was an elegant escape, a way to channel both modernity and timeless, classic luxury. Women of the era would have been drawn to its sophistication and exoticism, choosing it to evoke the glamorous image of the chic, cosmopolitan woman who effortlessly balanced modernity and grace.
The scent of Nuit de Noël is as rich and complex as its name. As a floral-woody-amber oriental fragrance, it presents a full-bodied composition that combines the warmth of ambergris, the earthy richness of sandalwood, and the sensual musk of civet. The perfume opens with a sophisticated blend of floral notes, which is then anchored by deeper, woody undertones. The high percentage of sandalwood in the base gives it an unmistakably creamy and smooth texture, while the presence of 6-isobutyl quinoline adds a leathery, almost smoky edge. This particular molecule introduces an intriguing contrast to the perfume's otherwise soft and feminine aura. In the heart of the fragrance, the Mousse de Saxe accord plays a pivotal role. This accord is an innovative creation that blends geranium with the warmth of licorice (constructed using anise) and the deep, velvety feel of vanillin. Together, these notes create an intoxicating, exotic atmosphere, where the warmth of the base is contrasted with the green, earthy floral heart, giving the perfume an enduring, sensual presence.
In the context of other perfumes from the period, Nuit de Noël stood apart. While floral and oriental fragrances were certainly in vogue, Caron pushed boundaries with the creation of this perfume, offering an opulent, complex blend that felt both timeless and modern. The inclusion of ambergris and civet, ingredients that evoke the allure of exotic locales, made this scent more intense and sensual than many of its contemporaries. Nuit de Noël was not simply a fragrance; it was an experience—a multi-layered, deeply emotional scent that wrapped the wearer in luxury and mystery. This made it particularly desirable to women who wished to stand out, to be remembered, to have a fragrance that would captivate attention and create a lasting impression.
As described by Guy Robert in Roja Dove’s "The Essence of Perfume", Nuit de Noël was so captivating that it would outshine all other perfumes in a room. "You could be sitting in a theater with some of the world’s most beautiful women sitting to your left, right, and in front of you, each wearing one of the world’s finest perfume creations. But, if a woman were to enter wearing Nuit de Noël, all the other women would become invisible." This testimony encapsulates the essence of Nuit de Noël: it was a fragrance that had the power to dazzle, to envelop, and to command attention. Even in the company of the most renowned perfumes of the time, Nuit de Noël stood alone as a perfume of depth, mystery, and timeless allure.
In 1922, amidst the tumultuous aftermath of the First World War, Europe found itself immersed in a wave of celebration and escapism, desperately seeking to reclaim a sense of joy and luxury. The era that followed—known as the Roaring Twenties—was defined by a spirit of liberation, decadence, and a fascination with all things exotic. This was the backdrop against which Parfums Caron introduced Nuit de Noël, a fragrance that would capture the essence of this vibrant yet enigmatic period. The name itself, “Night of Christmas,” conjures images of a mystical winter evening, rich with warmth and romance, offering a hint of the magic and celebration associated with the holiday season. Nuit de Noël was not merely a perfume; it was a testament to a time when people, weary from the horrors of war, embraced the need for escapism and sought beauty in every form—whether through fashion, culture, or scent.
The design of Nuit de Noël reflects this period of extravagance and theatricality. The perfume is encased in a striking, opaque black glass bottle, its sleek and mysterious design reminiscent of the shadowy elegance that defined the 1920s. A gold band, reminiscent of an urchin style, encircles the bottle, adding an element of intrigue and opulence. The shape and decoration of the bottle evoke the allure of Christmas night—a time of mystery and wonder. With its sleek, dark form, the bottle becomes a visual metaphor for the perfume's own complex, seductive composition. The luxurious black and gold colors speak to the era's love of contrast and glamour, while the scent contained within the bottle carries the same level of complexity and allure.
The fragrance itself is a sophisticated blend of floral, woody, and amber accords that offer an immersive experience. The heart of Nuit de Noël features rich jasmine, adding an air of romanticism and sensuality that aligns perfectly with the perfume's evocative name. This is balanced by the deep, earthy notes of Saxon moss, adding a velvety green quality to the scent. The base is grounded with warm, exotic amber, creating a rich, enveloping depth that feels both timeless and luxuriously comforting. Together, these elements embody a fragrance that transports the wearer to a dreamlike, enchanted world, reminiscent of the magical, fairytale evening the name suggests.
Since its debut, Nuit de Noël has continued to captivate with its iconic limited editions, each paying homage to the original’s mystical and sensual appeal. The fragrance, much like the era it was born from, remains a symbol of escapism, romance, and the mysterious beauty of the night. Its legacy is a testament to the timeless allure of Caron’s artistry, with each new release sparking renewed fascination and desire. In this sense, Nuit de Noël is not just a fragrance—it is an evocative journey, an invitation to embrace the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, and a reminder of the world’s ability to find light in the darkest of times.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Nuit de Noel is classified as a floral-woody-amber (oriental) fragrance for women. Oriental: full bodied combination of civet, sandalwood, musk, ambergris and other fragrances. Basically exotic.
- Top notes: lemon, geranium, anise, violet leaves, aldehydes
- Middle notes: carnation, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose absolute, lily of the valley, orris, tuberose
- Base notes: myrrh, benzoin, frankincense, vanilla, oakmoss, civet, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, leather, cedar
Nuit de Noel is classified as a floral-woody-amber (oriental) fragrance for women. Oriental: full bodied combination of civet, sandalwood, musk, ambergris and other fragrances. Basically exotic. Nuit de Noel has a 25% overdose of sandalwood in the base along with a leathery type molecule known as 6-isobutyl quinoline. The Mousse de Saxe accord is comprised of geranium, licorice (created with anise), isobutyl quinoline (for the leather notes), iodine and vanillin (a synthesized vanilla).
""Nuit de Noel," a crisp seasonable fragrance whose devotees know no season for its dry, rosy, smoky notes. The 2-ounce bottle, $45.* • "Le Muguet du Bonheur," its cheerful, shining character attested to by a tiny spray of lilies of the valley."
Scent Profile:
Nuit de Noël unfolds with a striking and complex tapestry of notes, each contributing to the fragrance’s deep, enigmatic allure. As you first breathe in, a burst of lemon enters the air—bright and crisp, like the zesty freshness of a citrus grove at dawn. It's sharp but effervescent, awakening the senses with a clean, almost sparkling quality.
This invigorating citrus is soon softened by the presence of violet leaves, which introduce a cool, green freshness that mingles with an almost watery quality—like walking through a dewy garden at first light. The geranium adds a floral, slightly spicy touch, its aroma reminiscent of crushed petals with a slightly minty edge, both uplifting and soothing. There’s a subtle hint of anise as well, providing a sweet, licorice-like nuance that adds intrigue, blending seamlessly with the more floral notes to create a beautifully balanced, multifaceted opening.
As the perfume begins to settle, the heart notes emerge, rich and intoxicating. The carnation introduces a spicy warmth, a floral with a clove-like edge, evoking the sensation of a soft, velvety bouquet. The violet here deepens, presenting a powdery floral that brings a sense of grace and softness, while the jasmine adds a sensual, almost heady opulence. It is rich, sweet, and undeniably feminine, with a creamy, velvety texture that enhances the fragrance's depth.
Ylang-ylang weaves its exotic character through the heart, its creamy, floral nature adding a tropical sweetness that transports you to a faraway garden in full bloom. Rose absolute enriches the composition with a lush, almost velvety rose note, full-bodied and elegant, while the lily of the valley introduces a touch of crispness, fresh and pure, with a subtle sweetness that contrasts with the darker, richer florals surrounding it. The orris root brings a powdery, earthy note that adds sophistication, while the creamy, sweet nature of tuberose lingers like a soft, intoxicating veil of white petals.
As the fragrance deepens into its base, a more animalistic, resinous warmth takes over. Myrrh is rich and resinous, its balsamic sweetness adding a sacred, almost incense-like quality, while benzoin adds a rich, vanilla-like warmth, softening the more austere elements. The smoky, resinous note of frankincense enhances this depth, bringing a mystical and spiritual edge that contrasts beautifully with the lush florals.
The creamy, comforting warmth of vanilla emerges, smooth and sweet, wrapped in the sultry embrace of oakmoss, whose earthy, woody depth gives the fragrance an undercurrent of natural richness. Civet enters next, adding an animalic, slightly musky facet, rich and sensual, grounding the fragrance with an animal warmth that is both captivating and elusive. The ambergris, with its salty-sweet, almost oceanic scent, weaves in a sense of timelessness, adding an ethereal yet sensual quality to the composition. Musk contributes a skin-like warmth, adding an almost tactile richness to the base that feels intimate and enveloping.
The sandalwood, in its overdose, provides a creamy, milky woodiness, smooth and elegant, but with an edge of leather from the molecular compound 6-isobutyl quinoline—adding a raw, animalic touch that balances the sweetness and woodiness, bringing a tactile, almost sensual edge to the base. Finally, vetiver adds an earthy, slightly smoky nuance, adding balance to the fragrance’s rich, exotic profile, while cedarwood grounds everything with its dry, woody resonance, offering a clean, quiet finish to this complex, captivating scent.
In Nuit de Noël, each ingredient tells a part of the story, creating an interplay of rich, exotic, and sensual elements that transport the wearer to a timeless world of elegance and mystery. From the bright opening of citrus and fresh greens to the complex heart of florals and the deep, animalic, and woody base, Nuit de Noël is a perfume that feels like a journey—a journey into the night, into mystery, into a moment suspended in time.
Bottles:
The bottle was also manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. You might find a bottle with the entwined HP symbol for Pochet or the little paper label for Baccarat - or in most cases - no marking at all other than some hand inscribed numbers. Prior to 1936, Baccarat did not systematically mark their bottles with their labels or acid stamps.
To open the classic Nuit de Noel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Caron in 1963:
"Heat neck only of bottle quickly with a match; twist off cap (do not pull)."
The perfume bottle was then packed in an elegant presentation case, covered with printed paper imitating shagreen. It is also possible to find the vintage powder box with the same shagreen print.
This bottle was available in the following sizes:
- 5/8 oz Miniature
- 1/4 oz
- 1/2 oz
- 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall.
- 2 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall.
Nuit de Noel is a rich complex scent with oriental undertones of jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, iris, tuberose, sandalwood and moss. During the 1990s, the romantic scent was increasingly hard to find in the United States, but was brought back in its original opaque black glass, with its simple gold band, in 1998, and was only available at the higher end shops such as Neiman Marcus and selected perfumeries.
Nuit de Noel is still available today, apparently only in parfum. However, bargains can be found on ebay and etsy for the vintage parfum, which for purists are holy grails of spice and oakmoss. You may be able to find some leftover bottles of the eau de toilette on discount perfume sites.
Nuit de Noel was available in the following forms:
- Parfum (Extrait)
- Cologne Parfumee Aerosol Spray
- Parfum de Toilette Spray
- Eau de Cologne
- Eau de Toilette
- Eau de Parfum
- Lotion (a skin freshener)
- Face Powder
- Grand Luxe Toilet Soap
The Pharmaceutical Era - Volume 58, 1924:
"N'Aimez Que Moi (love only me) is the next popular brand in the Caron lines, with Tabac Blond in close pursuit. Another big Caron success was introduced last Christmas. It is Nuit de Noel (Christmas Eve). This perfume comes in a black bottle, an original idea in the perfumery trade."
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"Air-Conditioned Caron offers a new idea in perfume packaging. Three Caron perfumes "Nuit de Noel," Bellodgia" and "Tabac Blond," have been repackaged in white simulated sharkskin boxes. The boxes have been designed large enough so that an air space exists between the container and the perfume bottle which is said to take care of extreme climatic changes that may affect the contents of the bottle."
The Sportswoman, 1936:
"The spread of air conditioning is uncanny — it now appears in the white snake skin box with which Caron is newly presenting Bellodgia and Nuit de Noel. The box has a double cavity which protects the perfume from variations of temperature."
Soap, 1962:
"Grand Luxe toilet soap from Parfums Caron, Paris, with its "Nuit de Noel" (Christmas Night) fragrance. Packaged in Paris, the four ounce bar is boxed in a blue, shagreen paper. Retail price, $3.50 per cake."
Gallery of Limited Edition Bottles:
Limited Edition "NUIT DE NOËL PILLOW"
This beautiful presentation has been available since 2000. Nestled inside a pillow shaped box of Limoges porcelain, is an opaque white crystal 28 ml bottle of Nuit de Noël extract, adorned with a gold label and dots, sealed with golden thread. This is a limited edition of only 1000 numbered pieces. It retails for 400 € and is available at www.parfumscaron.com
Limited Edition "LE MESSAGER D’EOLE"
This unusual presentation was dubbed Le Messager d'Eole. A pearlescent Limoges porcelain hot air balloon whose basket holds a clear crystal 28 ml bottle of Nuit de Noël extract, encircled with a gold thread. Limited edition of only 300 numbered pieces. It retailed for 1250 € and was only available at www.parfumscaron.com or at the Caron Boutique. This item is no longer produced which makes this a rare collectible.
Limited Edition "BOITE A MUSIQUE"
This beautiful presentation has been available since 2001. Artoria Limoges porcelain music box, with iridescent blown glass globe, as it plays the round gold metal platform rotates slowly to the music. Features 28 ml of parfum housed in a richly gilded crystal bottle. Limited edition of only 500 numbered pieces. This edition originally retailed for $600, now it is offered for 430 Euros at www.parfumscaron.com.
Limited Edition 1999:
Limited Edition 1999. Black crystal bottle, holds 28 ml of parfum. Presentation box lined with gold satin. Limited edition of only 600 numbered pieces.
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