Narcisse Noir by Caron c1911

Narcisse Noir by Caron, launched in 1911, carries a name rich with both symbolic meaning and sensory intrigue. The phrase "Narcisse Noir" translates from French to "Black Narcissus." The word narcisse refers to the narcissus flower, also known as the daffodil, which is renowned for its delicate, sweet scent. However, in this context, the adjective noir (pronounced nwar) adds an air of mystery and depth. "Black Narcissus" evokes imagery of the narcissus blooming under the cover of night, where its fragrance is said to transform into something deeper, more intoxicating, and elusive. The name conjures visions of dark, velvety petals opening under the moonlight, releasing an aura of sensuality and allure. This imagery, steeped in the romantic notion of the night, evokes a sense of mystery, the forbidden, and the enigmatic. It suggests an olfactory experience that is rich, dark, and seductively powerful—qualities that align with the perfume’s character.

Launched during the early 20th century, Narcisse Noir emerged during the Belle Époque period, a time marked by opulence, artistic expression, and a fascination with the avant-garde. The fashion of the time was luxurious, with women embracing elegant, structured garments such as corsets, dresses with intricate lacework, and artful accessories like long gloves and extravagant hats. This period was known for its emphasis on refinement, but also for a growing desire for freedom and self-expression, especially in the aftermath of the first wave of feminism and the shifting roles of women in society. Women of this era would have been drawn to Narcisse Noir for its bold, sophisticated composition that encapsulated both the opulence and the intrigue of the time. The perfume represented a departure from the simpler, lighter floral scents that were common, offering something darker, more complex, and sensually potent.

The perfume’s creation was a triumph in the art of perfumery, particularly because it successfully captured the elusive scent of the narcissus flower at night—a feat that had long eluded chemists. Unlike its daytime counterpart, the narcissus bloom’s fragrance at night is far richer, heavier, and more penetrating. Ernest Daltroff, Caron’s creator, captured this essence and bottled it, giving birth to a fragrance that was unlike anything else on the market. The composition of Narcisse Noir begins with a fresh, flowery top—a bouquet of roses, jasmine, and orange blossoms—that sets a vibrant, floral tone. But as the perfume develops, it becomes darker, with a dry, slightly powdery floral heart that deepens the overall scent. The base is sensual and complex, steeped in a rich, full-bodied floral essence that lingers with an intoxicating warmth. This progression, from fresh and light to dark and heavy, mirrors the transformation of the narcissus flower at night, as well as the fragrance’s namesake—the black narcissus.

In terms of its uniqueness for the period, Narcisse Noir was ahead of its time. The fragrance diverged from the more traditional, lighter floral offerings that dominated the perfume market in the early 20th century. While many fragrances of the time were fresh, airy, and more innocent in their approach to florals, Narcisse Noir introduced a daring, almost mysterious floral oriental scent that was complex, heavy, and sensual. It catered to women who sought something more sophisticated, something that spoke to their depth and elegance. This was not merely a perfume for adornment but an olfactory statement—a fragrance that demanded attention and suggested a woman who was both refined and unafraid of embracing her own sensuality. Narcisse Noir is considered by many to be one of the great successes of modern perfumery, a true achievement in translating the natural world into a scent that captured not only the essence of the flower but also the atmosphere of the night in which it bloomed.

For women of the time, Narcisse Noir was more than a scent—it was a statement. It embodied the evolving role of women in a rapidly changing world, a world that was beginning to embrace modernity, sensuality, and empowerment. Women who chose to wear Narcisse Noir were not afraid to indulge in the darker, more luxurious side of life, embracing their own complexities and desires. As for the scent itself, it’s clear that Narcisse Noir was a perfume intended to be both captivating and evocative—something deep, sensual, and unforgettable, with a complexity that matched the modern woman of the time. It was a perfume for those who dared to explore the full spectrum of their femininity.

In 1924, The Pharmaceutical Era magazine published a fascinating account of Caron Corporation's groundbreaking achievements in the perfume industry, particularly highlighting their iconic scent, Narcisse Noir. According to the publication, Caron’s expertise in capturing the elusive odor of the narcissus flower, specifically the scent it emits at night, was a monumental achievement. For generations, chemists had attempted to replicate this fragrance, only to be thwarted by its complexity. The narcissus has a markedly different odor at night compared to its daytime bloom—richer, heavier, and more penetrating, lending it a deeply seductive quality. Caron’s ability to successfully reproduce the narcissus bloom’s nocturnal scent marked a triumph in perfumery and set a new standard in the industry.

What made Narcisse Noir particularly revolutionary was not only its innovative capture of this night-blooming flower’s scent but also the fact that Caron placed much of its focus on perfecting this particular fragrance. By emphasizing the narcissus' unique scent profile, the brand had created a signature scent that would become one of the greatest successes of modern perfumery, admired even by its competitors. Narcisse Noir stood apart from other floral fragrances on the market, offering a complex, dark, and sensual take on the beloved floral notes. This created a niche for Caron in the world of fine fragrances, where it quickly became recognized as a pioneering force in modern perfumery.

As the article continued, it introduced Narcisse Blanc as the companion fragrance to Narcisse Noir, offering a lighter, perhaps more daytime-appropriate counterpart to its dark sibling. The article also noted the popularity of N’Aimez Que Moi (Love Only Me), another Caron fragrance, which, along with Tabac Blond, had quickly become favorites within the brand's collection. Notably, Tabac Blond was also gaining traction in South America, where it was becoming nearly as beloved as Narcisse Noir, demonstrating Caron’s expanding global reach. The mention of Nuit de Noël, introduced just before Christmas, was especially intriguing. This perfume was distinctive in its packaging—a black bottle—which represented an original, avant-garde idea in the perfume trade at the time. The striking visual identity of the perfume evidently captured the public’s imagination, contributing to its success.

By the mid-1920s, Caron had firmly established itself as a respected name in the perfume world. Originally founded in France in 1900, the company’s American operations had begun to flourish, with the American branch incorporated just a year earlier. Under the leadership of F.N. Carpenter, the company expanded its presence and distribution in the United States. The article sheds light on Caron’s strategic efforts in marketing their fragrances, particularly in South America, where their products were gaining strong popularity, especially among the local elite. This expansion reflected Caron’s growing international recognition as a perfume house with both a strong historical foundation and a forward-thinking approach to scent creation and branding.

In essence, the Pharmaceutical Era article serves as a snapshot of Caron’s innovative role in the perfume industry in the early 20th century, highlighting their success with Narcisse Noir and other key fragrances that defined the brand’s legacy. By focusing on unusual, complex, and captivating scents, Caron positioned itself as a trailblazer, making waves not only in France but also in the growing global market.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with  a fresh flowery top, followed by a dry floral heart, resting on a sensual floral base. Floral bouquet; heady blend of roses, jasmine and orange blossoms.

• Top notes:  neroli, cassie, orange blossom, orange, bergamot, mandarin, petitgrain, lemon 
• Middle notes: clove, ylang ylang, orris, tuberose, jasmine, jonquil and tincture of rose
• Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, Persian black narcissus, vetiver, civet, musk and sandalwood

The classic Narcisse Noir (Caron 1912) featured narcissus and jasmine, and also the related jonquil in its heart note (Glöss 1995), but according to Turin and Sanchez (2009), the reformulated version is a a mixture of sweet, jasmine and orange blossom .

 

Scent Profile:

Narcisse Noir opens with an exhilarating burst of citrus and green freshness, immediately enveloping you in a dynamic interplay of neroli and bergamot. The neroli is sharp yet floral, with a clean, slightly bitter edge that lingers delicately in the air, evoking the sun-drenched, fresh orange groves of the Mediterranean. As it mingles with the bergamot, the citrus note deepens, adding a refined zest that brightens the entire composition. Petitgrain—the oil derived from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree—joins in, contributing a slightly woody, green note that subtly grounds the opening freshness. 

A lively mandarin and lemon sharpen the citrus profile even further, their sweet, tangy accents invoking the lively vibrancy of a sunlit garden. The orange blossom adds a soft, aromatic floral touch that gently sweetens the brightness, bringing a sense of elegance and calm, while cassie—with its slightly powdery and honeyed aroma—adds depth, evoking the warmth of a blooming flower basking in the heat of a summer afternoon.

As the top notes fade, the fragrance transitions into a more intense and complex floral heart. The presence of ylang-ylang brings an opulent, almost intoxicating sweetness to the blend, its creamy, exotic fragrance weaving seamlessly with the soft, almost buttery warmth of tuberose. The tuberose feels rich and velvety, its heady, narcotic character rising up, enveloping you in its mysterious allure. Around this, jasmine dances with its lush, floral sweetness, bringing a more natural, honeyed quality to the bouquet, while jonquil offers a slightly green, fresh floral touch that balances the sweetness, adding a breath of fresh air. 

The subtle presence of orris provides a powdery, slightly woody undertone that ties the florals together with a classic, elegant grace. The tincture of rose adds a gentle, slightly spicy element, rounding out the bouquet with a timeless, romantic quality. This heart is not overly soft but presents a more structured, almost dry floral composition, built on layers of delicate petals and sun-warmed blossoms.

As the fragrance settles into its sensual base, the true depth of Narcisse Noir begins to emerge. The Persian black narcissus is the star here, its rich, dark floral note capturing the essence of the perfume's namesake—mysterious and hauntingly beautiful, it stands at the heart of the fragrance. The narcissus, though floral, is darker and more profound in this rendition, evoking the scent of petals unfurling in the quiet of night. Surrounding this, the creamy sweetness of heliotrope provides a soft, almond-like warmth, blending with the gentle sweetness of vanilla to add a comforting, almost edible quality to the scent. 

Vetiver, with its earthy, woody facets, introduces a grounding, smoky undertone that complements the floral richness, while civet and musk add animalistic depth, evoking warmth, sensuality, and an almost forbidden quality. These notes are woven through the fragrance like a fine thread, their quiet, sensual power becoming more apparent as the perfume lingers. Finally, sandalwood offers a soft, creamy woodiness that smooths the entire composition, creating a lasting, enveloping warmth that clings to the skin like the softest of whispers.

Narcisse Noir is a fragrance that embodies the juxtaposition of light and shadow, capturing the beauty of flowers both in the day and the depths of night. Each ingredient in this intricate floral oriental brings a unique layer of depth, turning the perfume into a journey—starting with fresh brightness, moving through a rich and complex floral heart, and resting on a deep, sensual base. The result is a perfume that feels both timeless and evocative, inviting you into a world of elegance, mystery, and sensuality. 

Bottles:

The bottle design for Narcisse Noir is as captivating and distinctive as the fragrance it holds, reflecting both the elegance and mystery of the perfume itself. Designed by Julien Viard, the bottle was initially produced by Cristalleries de Pantin, with later editions crafted by the renowned Baccarat. Its form draws inspiration from an inkwell, its squat, curved silhouette evoking a sense of antiquity and sophistication. The bottle is molded in colorless, pressed glass, with four delicate "claws" emerging from the base, subtly accentuating its sturdy, grounded appearance. These "claws," while seemingly simple, lend the bottle a sense of both strength and fragility, a duality that mirrors the scent of Narcisse Noir—bold yet delicate, floral yet dark.

The roundness of the bottle, with its soft curves, contrasts beautifully with the sharp edges of the claws, creating an overall harmonious design. The glass is clear, allowing the deep, rich color of the perfume within to be visible, inviting a tactile connection to the product even before the fragrance is experienced. The bottle’s compact size adds a sense of intimacy, as if it were a precious object, meant to be held closely and cherished.

 

The stopper, too, is an exquisite reflection of the perfume’s namesake. Made from opaque black glass, it takes the shape of an open narcissus blossom, its intricate design capturing the beauty and complexity of the flower that inspired the fragrance. The stopper’s delicate, sculptural form sits atop the bottle like a crown, emphasizing the perfume's regal character. The narcissus blossom is gracefully molded, each petal radiating out in soft waves, evoking the flower's elegant yet mysterious nature. This stopper serves as a visual representation of the scent’s complexity—just as the narcissus blooms in the quiet of night, the bottle and its stopper suggest a depth of character waiting to be revealed.

 

Together, the bottle and stopper form a harmonious whole, encapsulating the essence of Narcisse Noir. The inkwell-inspired shape and the floral stopper are symbolic of the perfume's duality—its timeless, almost classic elegance balanced by the rich, sensual depth of its floral oriental composition. This bottle design, with its precise craftsmanship and beautiful details, is a testament to the artistry of both Viard and the glassmakers at Cristalleries de Pantin and Baccarat, elevating the perfume not only as a scent but as an objet d'art in its own right.

When exploring Caron fragrances, especially through the lens of historical advertising, it’s important to remember that the listed bottle volumes were often rounded up for simplicity and to better communicate with the public. In older newspaper advertisements, Caron bottles were sometimes marketed with slightly inflated sizes, a practice likely intended to provide clearer, more familiar measurements to American consumers. For instance, a bottle that actually contained 0.56 oz might have been listed as 0.5 oz in U.S. advertisements. This rounding-off technique helped simplify the perception of size, making it more accessible to the broader market.

It’s also worth noting that Caron’s bottle sizes varied greatly over the years, and this variation wasn’t always consistent. For example, a 0.5 oz bottle from one time period might differ in height or shape from a 0.5 oz bottle made later on. These changes were often the result of shifts in bottle manufacturers or design adjustments over time. The Caron company, known for its intricate, artisanal packaging, likely worked with different glassmakers who introduced slight modifications in size and proportions, leading to discrepancies in how the volumes were presented.

For collectors or those seeking more accuracy, understanding the size of a bottle can sometimes be tricky if the bottle is missing its label, tag, or box. However, by measuring the bottle's dimensions, you can get a fairly accurate sense of its original volume. While not a perfect system, this approach can offer valuable clues. Just keep in mind that these measurements, due to the slight variability across years and manufacturers, are not always definitive. Nevertheless, they can provide a helpful guide when determining the size of your Caron bottle, especially if it doesn’t match the volume indicated on a missing label.

Parfum in Narcissus bottle:

• 0.25 oz = stands 
• 0.5 oz = stands 1.75" tall
• 0.56 oz stands = 1.5" tall
• 1 oz  = stands 2" tall
• 1.232 oz 
• 1.85 oz = stands 2.25" tall
• 2 oz = stands 2.75" tall
• 2.112 oz = stands 2 1/8" tall
• 3 oz = stands
• 6 oz = stands 3" tall
• 7 2/3 oz = stands 3.5" tall
• Other bottles:
• 2.5" tall =
• 3.75" tall
• 4" tall 

The deluxe edition of the Narcisse Noir bottle was presented in an opulent and carefully crafted packaging that elevated the experience of owning and using the perfume to something truly exceptional. The cylinder-shaped cardboard presentation box was sheathed in a luxurious combination of gold and black satin paper, both of which exude a sense of sophistication and mystery, much like the fragrance itself. The gold sheen suggests the perfume's intrinsic value, while the deep black offers an air of intrigue, perfectly suited to the sensual and alluring nature of Narcisse Noir.

At the top of the box, an illustration featuring a polychrome Eastern-styled figure in reserve further enhances the exotic allure of the perfume. The intricate design, done in rich, vibrant colors, speaks to the timeless appeal of the Far East, evoking images of mystery, wealth, and refinement. The figure, delicately painted, is subtly reserved against the backdrop, creating a contrast between the foreground and the elegant simplicity of the background. This artistic motif serves as a beautiful homage to the perfume's complex composition and its ties to both the exotic and the luxurious, mirroring the floral oriental notes found within the fragrance itself.

This deluxe packaging was typically used for the 2 oz bottle of parfum (extrait), a coveted size that speaks to the exclusivity and high status of the fragrance. The box is not merely a vessel, but an extension of the fragrance experience, offering a sense of occasion when opening it. Each detail, from the elegant satin finish to the intricate artwork, was meticulously designed to make the wearer feel as though they were indulging in something truly precious—transforming the ritual of applying Narcisse Noir into an intimate and sensory moment. The box itself, with its golden hues and artistic motifs, became a reflection of the perfume's luxurious and enchanting essence, making it an unforgettable part of the experience.

Originally, the Narcisse Noir bottle was offered in two distinct types of packaging, each reflecting the level of luxury associated with the fragrance. The "plain box" was a simple yet refined square box covered in sleek black paper, offering a minimalist and understated presentation that still conveyed elegance. For those desiring something more lavish, the "deluxe satin box" was available, featuring a cylinder case wrapped in black satin, which added a tactile richness and sophisticated touch to the overall experience, elevating the perfume's sense of luxury.

The perfume was available in multiple sizes to suit different preferences. The smallest size held 1/2 oz, offering a more accessible option for those wishing to experience the fragrance. The next size up contained 3/4 oz, followed by a 1 1/8 oz bottle. For those seeking the ultimate indulgence, the Grand Modèle bottle, a generous 7.5 oz, was also offered—an extravagant size that underscored the prestige of the scent and made a lasting statement on any vanity or dresser. Each box, from the simplest to the most opulent, was designed to match the luxurious nature of the fragrance inside, making Narcisse Noir not just a perfume, but an experience to be savored.

Face Powder:

The Narcisse Noir face powder was presented in a luxurious and delicate turquoise satin drawstring bag, a beautiful touch that made even the simplest of applications feel like a ritual. The bag, which held 3 oz. of powder, was adorned with a gold paper label that was carefully affixed to the drawstring, its elegant design capturing the opulence of the entire Narcisse Noir line. The soft, shimmering satin of the bag created a sense of refinement, inviting the user to experience not just a product, but a moment of indulgence.

Much like the parfum, the face powder was offered in two distinct packaging options: the "plain box" and the "deluxe satin box," each mirroring the luxurious presentation of the fragrance itself. The plain black box, measuring 3" square x 1.75" tall, was straightforward yet elegant, providing a subtle and classic packaging that emphasized the refinement of the product. For those seeking a more lavish experience, the deluxe satin box was available, with its 3.25" diameter x 2-1/8" tall dimensions, covered in rich black satin. This packaging mirrored the sophistication of the fragrance and was designed to further elevate the experience of using the product.

Today, these face powder presentations are considered very hard to find, making them a rare collector’s item. The combination of the exquisite satin bag and the finely crafted boxes, both of which mirror the lavishness of the Narcisse Noir fragrance, speaks to the timeless luxury of the Caron brand.

The "Trayette" was a rare and luxurious presentation set for Narcisse Noir, consisting of two bottles of extrait (perfume concentrate) and a face powder, all elegantly housed in a satin-covered box. This set was designed to offer the ultimate sensory indulgence, combining the rich, heady floral notes of the perfume with the silky finish of the face powder. The satin box, with its plush exterior, provided a refined and cohesive aesthetic, perfectly complementing the opulence of the perfume inside.

Given its rarity, the Trayette set is one of the more elusive and sought-after presentations of Narcisse Noir. Few examples have surfaced over the years, making it an especially precious collector’s item. If you happen to come across one, or already own one, it would be an exceptional find, and a photo of such a set would be a welcome addition to the conversation.

Narcisse Blanc:

The companion fragrance to Narcisse Noir, Narcisse Blanc, was designed to mirror its counterpart in both form and elegance, but with subtle differences that set it apart. The bottle for Narcisse Blanc closely resembles the iconic Narcisse Noir bottle, with its distinctive squat, rounded shape and luxurious craftsmanship. The key distinction lies in the stopper: Narcisse Blanc was topped with an opaque white glass stopper, replacing the deep black stopper of Narcisse Noir. This change in color subtly signals the lighter, more ethereal character of the fragrance, evoking the purity and freshness implied by the word "blanc" (white).

In addition to the different stopper, Narcisse Blanc was housed in bottles made of frosted, colorless glass, giving the fragrance an even more delicate and refined appearance. The bottles featured a charming leaf motif, molded into the shoulders of the glass, which gracefully spread across the top, lending a soft, organic quality to the design. These beautiful details echoed the natural beauty and freshness of the fragrance itself, a floral composition that contrasted yet complemented the depth and warmth of Narcisse Noir.

As with Narcisse Noir, Narcisse Blanc was presented in two types of boxes: the "plain box" and the "deluxe satin box." Both boxes mirrored the packaging of its darker counterpart, with the deluxe satin box providing the more luxurious option. These elegant presentations ensured that Narcisse Blanc was every bit as sophisticated and collectible as Narcisse Noir, making them both stand out as timeless treasures in the world of perfumery.

Beware of Copycats: 

The distinctive Caron bottle, particularly the one designed for Narcisse Noir, became so iconic that it influenced the perfume industry in a remarkable way. The floral, molded stopper, shaped like an open narcissus blossom, was immediately recognizable and became synonymous with luxury and refinement. Its success didn’t go unnoticed by rival perfume houses, some of which sought to capitalize on its popularity by creating their own versions of Narcisse-themed fragrances. These competitors often adopted similar floral molded stoppers, though with variations in color or design. Some may have altered the flower shape or used different materials, but the inspiration was clear: they were attempting to capture the same allure and elegance that the Caron bottle had achieved.

However, these imitations, despite their attempts to emulate the Caron style, were priced much lower and lacked the craftsmanship and quality that defined Caron’s bottles. The precision of the Pantin and later Baccarat manufacturing, which produced the original Narcisse Noir bottles, was a mark of distinction. The clarity and the sculptural details of the Caron bottles, including the fine glasswork and the intricate floral stopper, set them apart from these cheaper alternatives. The Caron bottle was not just a container for fragrance; it was a work of art, a statement of luxury, and a reflection of the brand’s dedication to quality.

The scale of the copying problem became so significant that Caron was forced to take legal action. In a notable case, the company sued the Du Moiret Co. of New York, which had been selling a fragrance named Narcisse in a bottle suspiciously similar to Caron's. This move underscored just how integral the bottle design was to Caron’s brand identity. The lawsuit was a necessary step in protecting their intellectual property and ensuring that the uniqueness of their craftsmanship remained associated with their name. 

Other Narcisse Noir bottles:

When Narcisse Noir was first launched in 1911, Caron sought to expand the fragrance's presence with three companion bottles designed to hold the Parfum's accompanying products: Poudre, Lotion, and Eau de Toilette. These bottles, produced between 1911 and 1930, were designed to maintain the same luxurious aesthetic as the Narcisse Noir fragrance bottle, allowing the scent to be experienced in a variety of forms. Each companion bottle was distinctive yet complementary, sharing the same fine craftsmanship that defined Caron's signature style.

The Poudre bottle, which contained sachet powder rather than liquid, was produced with a faceted "hand hammered" effect, setting it apart from other containers. Measuring 3" in diameter and 2 5/8" tall, it featured a beautifully cut and polished base with no manufacturer markings, although it is believed to have been produced at Pantin, rather than Baccarat. The Poudre bottle holds one ounce of powder and was labeled with two paper tags on the base. One of the labels reads, "Paris France Caron Corporation, NY, U.S. Trademark 1G4.476," while the other notes the volume as "1 oz. 975." Despite its delicate, hammered design, the Poudre bottle remains an elusive piece today, adding to its rarity and charm.

The Lotion and Eau de Toilette bottles, both of which mirror the Narcisse Noir flacon in their design, were distinguished by their molded names. The Eau de Toilette bottle, which stood at 3.4" tall with a 4.2" diameter, held 8 ounces of fragrance. It was slightly larger than the other bottles and had the name "Eau de Toilette" molded directly into the glass, lending it a unique mark of identification. The Lotion bottle, measuring 3.5" tall and 3.5" in diameter, contained a product quite different from what we think of as lotion today. In the early 20th century, lotion was not a moisturizing cream but rather a hair grooming liquid designed to add fragrance and impart a glossy sheen to the hair. Like the Eau de Toilette bottle, the Lotion version also featured the molded name, highlighting its intended use as a luxurious grooming product.

 

Both the Lotion and Eau de Toilette bottles, like the Poudre, are thought to have been produced at Pantin, maintaining the same high standards of craftsmanship. All three bottles—Poudre, Lotion, and Eau de Toilette—are incredibly rare today, with few surviving examples. Their scarcity makes them highly coveted among collectors, and when one does appear on the market, it is wise not to hesitate to acquire it. The bottles represent a rich part of Caron's legacy, offering a glimpse into the brand's commitment to elegance, luxury, and innovative packaging that set them apart from their competitors.

 Another rare and sought-after item from Caron's early collection is the original Toilet Poudre bottle, which contained talcum powder. This bottle, much like its Poudre counterparts, is difficult to find today due to its rarity and the passage of time. The Toilet Poudre bottle stood 5.5" tall with a 2.25" diameter, and its design was both elegant and striking. Made from colorless glass, the bottle featured a series of faceted panels, similar to the Poudre bottle, which lent it a pleasing sparkle and texture. The faceted design was not only visually appealing but also added to the bottle’s tactile charm, catching light in a way that made it feel as if the powder itself was part of the glittering glass.

At the base of the bottle, "CARON Made in France" was molded, a clear sign of the product’s authentic craftsmanship. This base, along with the faceted design, reflected the high standards of Caron's perfume and toiletry lines, which were synonymous with luxury and sophistication during the early 20th century. The bottle was topped with a chrome shaker lid, an innovative feature that allowed for easy dispensing of the talcum powder, ensuring a smooth, even application. The cap was made from faceted black glass, adding a dramatic contrast to the transparent body of the bottle and enhancing its overall aesthetic.

One of the most striking features of this bottle was its gorgeous lithographed paper label that covered most of its surface. The label featured a Greek theme, a motif that Caron embraced around the 1910-1920 period, drawing inspiration from ancient Greek art and culture. This motif was also used on other Caron products of the time, including the Bain de Champagne bottle, creating a cohesive visual identity for the brand. The label's rich, polychrome colors and intricate detailing brought an element of artistry to the packaging, making it not only a functional item but also a visual delight.

In the 1930s, the design of the Toilet Poudre bottle underwent a slight modification. While the label still retained the Greek motif, the black glass cap was replaced with a gold-tone cap. The cap was now paired with a gold foil paper label reading "Le Narcisse Noir Caron," marking a shift in the packaging design that reflected the evolving aesthetic preferences of the period. Despite these changes, the Toilet Poudre bottle remained a beautiful, timeless piece, and both versions—especially the earlier one with the black glass cap—are now highly coveted by collectors. The rarity and beauty of this item, paired with its historical significance, make it an exceptional find for those fortunate enough to come across it.

 

In the Pharmaceutical Era of 1924, Caron Corp. of New York introduced a new addition to their Narcisse Noir line: a talcum powder that quickly captured the attention of fragrance and beauty enthusiasts. This Toilet Poudre, as it was known, was designed to complement the signature scent of Narcisse Noir, offering the same luxurious experience in a softer, more tactile form. The powder was described as exceptionally fine and silky, with a texture that felt almost weightless against the skin. It was noted for its softness, which, combined with the finely milled grains, made for a velvety application that was both pleasant and soothing.

What set this talcum powder apart from others on the market, however, was its intense fragrance. More highly perfumed than most talcums of the time, the powder carried the familiar, evocative scent of Narcisse Noir, a perfume that had already made a name for itself as both bold and sensual. The combination of softness and fragrance in this new product made it a unique offering, appealing to those who desired a subtle yet persistent scent that lingered on the skin throughout the day.

The packaging was also a significant factor in the expected popularity of the Narcisse Noir talcum powder. The black cap mirrored the dark, dramatic tones associated with the Narcisse Noir fragrance, enhancing the connection between the product and its namesake perfume. The label, which was considered artistically striking, was designed in a combination of gray, black, and white tones. The elegant simplicity of the label, with its refined monochrome color palette, added to the sophistication of the product. It was evident that the label had been crafted by a skilled artist, with a design that reflected the high quality and luxury associated with the Caron brand.

The Caron Corp. based their expectations of the talcum powder’s success not only on the exceptional qualities of the product but also on the attractiveness of its packaging and the brand recognition established by Narcisse Noir. It was clear that this new addition was not simply a functional item but a part of the overall Narcisse Noir experience—an extension of the luxury and sensuality that the fragrance evoked. With its fine powder, rich scent, and stylish presentation, the Narcisse Noir talcum powder was poised to become a beloved product in the Caron line.

"Sunset Boulevard" (1950), directed by Billy Wilder, is an iconic film noir that delves into the dark underbelly of Hollywood. It is a story about Norma Desmond, a once-glamorous silent film star who is now living in seclusion, desperately clinging to the past. The plot follows Joe Gillis, a struggling screenwriter who becomes entangled in her delusional world, leading to a tragic and eerie end. The movie, celebrated for its sharp dialogue and unforgettable performances, explores themes of vanity, obsolescence, and the brutal nature of fame.

The perfume Narcisse Noir and its distinctive bottle play a symbolic role in the film, as they serve as a visual cue to Norma Desmond’s faded but once-glorious beauty. Swanson’s character, living in a mansion filled with remnants of her former star power, is surrounded by objects that reflect her past indulgences, including the Narcisse Noir perfume. The bottle, designed in an elegant and artistic manner, becomes a metaphor for the character’s own tragic decay—beautiful and alluring, yet locked in the past, far from the reality of her current life.

The presence of Narcisse Noir in the film is also a subtle nod to Norma Desmond's own sense of sophistication and luxury, a remnant of her Hollywood heyday. By placing the perfume in such a prominent position, the film underscores her obsession with her former self, and her desperate attempts to reclaim the allure of her silent film days. The perfume, a symbol of luxury and feminine allure, contrasts with the darker elements of her life in seclusion, highlighting her tragic desperation and delusion.

The perfume’s inclusion in "Sunset Boulevard" adds an additional layer of nostalgia, linking it not only to the character's past fame but also to the Hollywood glamour of the early 20th century. It becomes a part of the film’s exploration of loss, showing how beauty and wealth can fade, leaving only remnants of a once-vibrant identity. The perfume's inclusion in the movie serves as a reflection of Norma Desmond's inner world, embodying both her grandeur and her tragic, delusional grip on a life that no longer exists. In this sense, Narcisse Noir isn't just a perfume—it's a symbol of the lost dreams and fading glamour that the film so hauntingly portrays.

Lotion:

Harper's Bazaar, 1958:

"ONCE AGAIN LIGHTLY: Devotees of Caron's "Narcisse Noir" can now rejoice over a lightened version of the fragrance. The very same pungent tropical flowers of the perfume have been distilled into a crystal clear body lotion."

Other Narcisse Noir Bottles Over the Years:

 

A limited edition presentation was released in 2011 to mark Caron's 100 Year Anniversary of the launch of Narcisse Noir. The edition is the familiar squat Baccarat flacon with the black glass floral molded stopper, housed in a replica of the original 1922 black satin covered box with the Paul Poiret styled image on the top of the lid.