Nocturnes by Caron c1980

Launched in Europe in May 1980 and introduced to the United States in September 1981, Nocturnes by Caron is a fragrance that evokes the essence of the night, both in name and in scent. The name Nocturnes is derived from the French word for "nighttime" and is pronounced "noh-tur-nuh." The word conjures images of the serene yet mysterious moments that unfold after dusk—an atmosphere of calm, reflection, and allure. It is rooted in the Latin word nocturnus, meaning "of the night," and carries with it an air of sophistication and elegance, evoking the quiet beauty of twilight hours. Women of the time, particularly in the 1980s, would have related to Nocturnes as a fragrance that resonated with their growing sense of independence, sensuality, and the desire for experiences beyond the confines of daylight. The fragrance mirrored the emerging empowerment of women in this era, marking a shift towards more complex and daring perfumes that aligned with the bold spirit of the time.

The word Nocturnes is inherently tied to the idea of a scent that evolves through the hours, like the changing moods of the night. It suggests mystery, intimacy, and a touch of the exotic—qualities that would be beautifully interpreted in scent. The fragrance, created by perfumer Roger Pellégrino of Firmenich, was a labor of love, taking a decade to perfect. It is classified as an aldehydic woody floral, opening with a bright, aldehydic top that soon melds into a radiant floral heart. The fragrance then settles on a sweet, powdery, and distinctly feminine base. This composition of over 80 ingredients, including stephanotis, rose, jasmine, tuberose, and ylang ylang, is a harmonious blend of floral opulence and woody warmth. Pellégrino’s description of Nocturnes as a "flowery and fragile fragrance... blooming with a woody, spicy warm combination, touched by a sensual hint of amber" conveys the deep complexity and balance of its character.

 

 In the context of the 1980s fragrance landscape, Nocturnes was both a reflection of and a departure from the trends of the time. The late 1970s and early 1980s saw the rise of bold, statement-making perfumes, such as those from Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Dior, that often embraced rich, complex, and sometimes heavy compositions. Nocturnes, while undoubtedly luxurious and multi-faceted, presented itself as an intimate and delicate offering within this larger trend. The use of aldehydic top notes was characteristic of the era, echoing the influence of earlier perfumes like Chanel No. 5, yet Nocturnes distinguished itself with its unique combination of powdery florals and warm, woody undertones.

Caron, a house with a rich heritage in perfume-making, had not released a new fragrance since the debut of Infini in 1970. Thus, the introduction of Nocturnes in 1980 marked an exciting return to the forefront of the perfume world. Sold at high-end department stores like Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, and Saks Fifth Avenue, Nocturnes was positioned as an upscale fragrance that catered to discerning customers seeking a luxurious scent. To further underscore its exclusivity, Caron offered complimentary sample bottles of Nocturnes to diners at prestigious New York French restaurants, such as Le Chantilly, Le Perigord, and Lutece, creating an air of refinement and connection between fragrance and high society.

In sum, Nocturnes by Caron was a fragrance that captured the essence of the night through both its name and its complex, elegant composition. It was a fragrance that resonated with the mood of the 1980s—a time of transformation, sensuality, and sophistication—and it continues to evoke the timeless allure of the evening hours.

The promotional copy for Nocturnes by Caron in Texas Monthly offers a glimpse into the allure and mystique that the fragrance evoked during its early years. In 1982, the ad’s headline, "Give her Nocturnes. Give her the night," placed the fragrance in a romantic and exclusive realm, suggesting that Nocturnes was not just a scent, but an experience that captured the essence of the evening. The phrase “Give her the night” invoked images of sophistication, sensuality, and freedom, aligning perfectly with the emerging cultural ideals of the 1980s. It was positioned as a fragrance for women who desired to embody the elegance and mystery of the night, and the ad concluded with a simple but powerful tagline: "Nocturnes. Parfum par Caron : une nouvelle sensation de Paris," highlighting the Parisian roots of the fragrance, with its connection to timeless French perfumery. The mention of Neiman Marcus further reinforced the exclusivity and luxury of Nocturnes, positioning it as a high-end, aspirational product.

Three years later, in 1985, a new Nocturnes ad in Texas Monthly presented a more poetic and evocative description. The phrase "The fragrance of a thousand flowers drifts in a whisper" spoke to the delicate, elusive nature of the fragrance, suggesting that Nocturnes was not overpowering but rather gently enveloping, like a soft breeze. As each note of the fragrance descended, it was said to strike a “single note” that was “slowly” and “softly” released, drawing a parallel between the unfolding scent and the music of a nocturne—a musical composition inspired by the night. This metaphor emphasized the depth and complexity of the fragrance, as well as its ability to evoke emotion and transport the wearer to another time and place. The ad’s reference to “romantic, languid sounds” conjured an image of a dreamy, almost otherworldly atmosphere, inviting the consumer to experience Nocturnes not just as a fragrance, but as part of a larger sensory journey. "Let the dream play on" encapsulated the feeling of timeless elegance and ongoing allure, inviting the wearer to continue basking in the fragrance’s seductive embrace. This advertising campaign, with its poetic imagery and romantic tone, firmly positioned Nocturnes as more than a fragrance—it was an invitation to dream, to experience the night in all its beauty and mystery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was originally classified as an aldehydic woody floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a radiant cool floral heart, resting on a sweet, powdery, feminine base. It is a blend of over 80 ingredients including stephanotis, opulent rose, precious night blooming jasmine, heady tuberose and ylang ylang essences. It was described by its creators as a "flowery and fragile fragrance..blooms with a woody, spicy warm combination, touched by a sensual hint of amber."

• Top notes: aldehydes, leafy green notes, fruity note, bergamot and mandarin
• Middle notes: Grecian stephanotis, ylang ylang, lily, orris, rose, tuberose, lily of the valley, night blooming jasmine, and cyclamen
• Base notes: spices, vetiver, benzoin, musk, ambergris, vanilla and sandalwood

"Nocturnes is a floral, rose, jasmine, tuberose parfum that expands into a mixture of woods, spices, hot and amber that leaves a trace of sensuality in its wake. Perfume of the sunset and the night, Nocturnes is dressed in black, a glass flower and a spherical cabochon enhance the beauty of the bottle, displayed in a sumptuous velvet case decorated with a colorful oil painting miniature. When morning comes, to make it seem like sleep, Nocturnes becomes toilet water, presented in a vaporizer and bottle for the day."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Nocturnes, the fragrance greets you with a bright, effervescent burst of aldehydes. The sharp, almost metallic clarity of the aldehydes dances in the air, giving a sense of fresh, clean linen, while still carrying an underlying warmth that hints at the complexity to come. It's a radiant opening, cutting through the air with a lively crispness, soon softened by the leafy green notes that follow, evoking the scent of dewy foliage in a shaded garden. 

A subtle, fruity note lingers in the background, offering a hint of sweetness, balancing the freshness with a delicate touch of ripeness. As the aldehydes recede, the citrusy vibrancy of bergamot and mandarin slices through, their zestiness infusing the top notes with a lively, effervescent glow that invigorates the senses, like a breath of fresh air on a spring morning.

Moving into the heart of Nocturnes, the fragrance shifts into a more elegant and cool floral composition. The first note that captures attention is the Grecian stephanotis—its waxy, delicate blooms open like a whisper in the night, offering a slightly green, creamy floralcy that is both refined and soft. Interwoven with this is the lush, exotic scent of ylang-ylang, which unfurls in opulent waves. Its rich, slightly fruity aroma blends seamlessly with the heady intensity of tuberose, its creamy, almost intoxicating sweetness filling the air like the scent of blooming flowers at dusk. 

The rose in the heart notes is opulent yet restrained, an elegant balance of soft petals and warm, powdery undertones. Alongside it, the night-blooming jasmine emerges, its deep, exotic aroma capturing the mysteries of the evening with its honeyed, almost animalic sweetness. Lily of the valley, fresh and innocent, offers a touch of springtime brightness, while orris brings a refined, powdery note, like the scent of finely milled iris root. The heart also holds the fleetingly sweet and slightly watery scent of cyclamen, which adds a cool, airy contrast to the richness of the other flowers.

As Nocturnes settles into its base, the fragrance becomes enveloped in warmth and sensuality. The spices add an intriguing depth, their aromatic complexity creating a gentle warmth that feels both cozy and exotic. Vetiver adds an earthy, green depth to the base, grounding the fragrance with its slightly smoky, woody aroma. 

The benzoin, with its balsamic sweetness, brings a resinous, almost incense-like richness that harmonizes with the musky undertones, offering a soft, animalic warmth. Ambergris enters as a whispering, salty-sweet note, adding an animalic sensuality and a trace of oceanic mystery. Vanilla contributes a comforting sweetness, adding a smooth, creamy undertone that softens the sharper edges of the fragrance. 

The sandalwood in the base gives a creamy, velvety richness, its subtle, milky woodiness rounding out the fragrance with a luxurious smoothness that lingers long after the other notes have faded. Together, these base notes create a deeply feminine, powdery foundation that perfectly balances the florals above it, while imbuing the fragrance with a warmth and sensuality that evokes a timeless, mysterious elegance.

Product Line:

The Nocturnes fragrance line by Caron was designed to offer an opulent and comprehensive experience for fragrance enthusiasts, with products catering to various preferences and needs. When the fragrance was first introduced in the early 1980s, it was available in a wide range of sizes, allowing customers to enjoy the luxury of Nocturnes in both concentrated and lighter forms. The parfum offerings included a 0.25 oz purse spray, a 0.25 oz parfum refill, and a 0.25 oz bottle of pure parfum, all priced at $45 in 1981, placing it in the high-end luxury market. Larger sizes, such as the 0.5 oz parfum at $80 and the 1 oz parfum at $130, were designed for those who wished to indulge in the fragrance more generously. These parfum options offered the full, rich experience of Nocturnes, which was known for its complex blend of florals and woody notes.

For those seeking a more affordable or everyday option, Nocturnes was also available in Eau de Toilette formats. The 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette splash, priced at $28, and the 3.38 oz Eau de Toilette splash for $45 offered lighter concentrations of the scent for daily wear. A larger 6.76 oz Eau de Toilette splash was also offered at $70, allowing for more frequent application. In addition to these, a 0.84 oz Eau de Toilette spray was introduced in 1983, retailing for $12.50, providing a more accessible entry point into the Nocturnes line. Larger spray options, including the 1.69 oz and 3.38 oz Eau de Toilette sprays (priced at $28 and $45, respectively), provided further variety for consumers. A more casual offering, the 3.38 oz cologne fraiche splash, was introduced in 1984 for $15, catering to those seeking a light, refreshing version of the fragrance. To complement these, the brand also released a gold tone perfume pendant in 1984, adding an element of wearable luxury to the Nocturnes experience.

• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette mini
• 1 oz Eau de Toilette
• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette (introduced by 1986)
• 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Spray (introduced by 1986)
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette
• 6.6 oz Eau de Toilette (limited edition)
• 0.33 fl. oz Cologne Fraiche mini
• 3.3 oz Cologne Fraiche

By 1983, Caron expanded the Nocturnes line to include an array of luxurious body care products that further enhanced the fragrance experience. The Perfumed Dusting Powder became a signature item in the line, offering a soft, fragrant cloud to envelop the skin. This was followed by the introduction of the 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Crème, which featured a delicate phyto-biological complex and was rich in natural oils, providing both nourishment and fragrance. The body crème was marketed as helping to firm and moisturize delicate skin, with the same sensual scent of Nocturnes lingering on the skin. Additionally, the 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Lotion and the Perfumed Bath Gelee provided other ways to indulge in the fragrance, while the Perfumed Soap offered a rich, aphrodisiacal floral experience, allowing wearers to envelop themselves in the scent from the moment they entered the shower.

• 7 oz Dusting Powder (introduced by 1986)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Body Lotion (introduced by 1986)
• 6.76 oz Perfumed Shower Gel (introduced by 1986)
• Perfume Stick for handbag (introduced by 1986)

For those who wanted an extra touch of glamour, the line also featured a Moisture Spray Bath Oil, which promised to enhance the bathing ritual with a luxurious, moisturizing experience. In 1985, Caron introduced the Les Scintillantes Perfumed Sparkling Gel, a playful yet luxurious addition to the collection, designed to leave a shimmering trail of fragrance on the skin. This ancillary line complemented the original Nocturnes fragrance and offered customers an elevated sensory experience, turning daily grooming routines into indulgent rituals. Together, the diverse range of Nocturnes products offered a complete fragrance experience, allowing wearers to immerse themselves in the luxurious floral and woody notes of the scent from head to toe.

Bottles:

The original Nocturnes bottle, introduced in 1981, was a striking creation designed by Pierre Dinand, known for his innovative and sculptural approach to fragrance packaging. Housed in a tall, clear glass flacon, the bottle was molded with a stylized flower, its curves soft yet sophisticated, capturing the essence of the fragrance it contained. The bottle's simplicity was enhanced by its crystal ball glass stopper, which added an elegant touch of luxury, shimmering in the light with a weightiness that conveyed a sense of refinement. A black plastic case encased the bottle, giving it a dramatic contrast against the transparent glass, and this protective cover was designed to reflect the mysterious, sensual aura of the fragrance. Made by Pochet et du Courval, a renowned French glassmaker, the bottle’s components were supplied by TPI-AMS, ensuring the highest quality craftsmanship. Wrapped in a glossy black rectangular package, the packaging echoed the bottle's sleek design, with a reproduction of a vibrant oil painting by Russian artist Melina Tochelietch gracing the front, infusing the product with an artistic and luxurious feel. The artwork, abstract and colorful, gave the packaging an enigmatic allure, perfectly complementing the perfume's complex composition.

The fragrance was also available in a more streamlined version, presented without the black case but retaining the tall, clear glass bottle with a black top. This version held the Eau de Toilette splash and spray and maintained the signature elegant form of the original bottle, minus the protective cover. Its clarity, paired with the black top, kept the design simple yet stylish, allowing the fragrance to be more easily displayed. A smaller parfum bottle mimicked the tall, clear design of its larger counterpart, though it did not feature the black case, offering a more delicate and portable version of the iconic flacon.

The vintage examples of Nocturnes were sold in black boxes that were as sophisticated as the fragrance itself. The packaging featured a small square with a colorful abstract design on the front, adding an element of visual intrigue to the overall aesthetic. These elegant boxes underscored the luxurious and timeless quality of the perfume, making it a coveted item for collectors and fragrance connoisseurs alike.

Limited Edition Baccarat Bottle:

The 1984 limited edition of Nocturnes by Caron is presented in a stunning and meticulously crafted packaging that enhances its luxurious appeal. The fragrance is housed in an oval cardboard box, its surface covered in gold picot paper, which glows with a subtle sheen. The box is elegantly titled and signed, signaling its exclusivity. Inside, the satin-covered interior cradles the rare Baccarat crystal flacon, ensuring that the bottle is as much a work of art as the perfume it contains.

The Baccarat bottle is a rare and exquisite example of fine craftsmanship, made from colorless pressed crystal. With its cylindrical cross-section, the flacon features a vase-like shape, elevated upon a pedestal that exudes a sense of grandeur and sophistication. The bottle’s surface is decorated with intricate picot-molded details that catch the light and give the glass a textured, almost tactile quality. These delicate embellishments enhance the visual depth of the bottle, reflecting the luxury and refinement that Baccarat is renowned for.

The shoulder of the bottle is adorned with petal-molded decoration, giving the piece a subtle floral touch that perfectly complements the elegant lines of the design. The bottle is topped with a matching stopper, which completes the cohesive, graceful aesthetic. Attached to the stopper is a tassel label, a final nod to the bottle’s high-end, limited-edition nature, and adding a touch of classic charm.

Standing at 19 cm (approximately 7.5 inches) tall, the Baccarat flacon is a substantial piece, creating a striking visual presence. The clear crystal, with its exquisite cut and flawless clarity, enhances the refined, sophisticated nature of the fragrance itself, inviting the wearer to experience both the scent and the art of perfumery in its purest form.

This limited edition, designed by Cristalleries de Baccarat with design #838, represents a harmonious marriage of art, design, and fragrance. It is a coveted collector's item, rare in its presentation and highly sought after by perfume connoisseurs. The crystal flacon elevates Nocturnes from a mere fragrance to a treasured object, its beauty and craftsmanship enhancing the allure of Caron's masterpiece.

 New York Magazine, 1983:

"PARFUMS CARON, MONTAIGNE BOUTIQUE  - Above, an original creation in Baccarat crystal. A bottle designed exclusively for our Caron boutique. Custom labeled signed and numbered Filled with Bellodgia or Nocturnes perfume, $250.00. Another jewel of inspiration from Caron's splendid heritage, 1/6 oz Nocturnes perfume rests inside stunningly gilded "dog collar" box. $12.50"

Limited Edition Baccarat Amphora Bottle:

This exquisite perfume bottle, crafted by Baccarat in 1983, is a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship. The bottle itself is made from translucent crystal, showcasing Baccarat's renowned clarity and precision. Shaped like an ancient amphora, the bottle evokes classical elegance, with its slender neck and graceful curves that taper into an elegant oval pedestal base. The amphora shape, with its timeless appeal, provides a sense of balance and refinement, making this bottle a striking piece of art in any collection.

The body of the bottle is adorned with molded decorations of two gilded lion heads, their majestic features rendered with fine detail and a sense of regality. The lions, with their powerful and commanding presence, add a touch of luxury and strength to the design, creating a stunning contrast with the translucent crystal. The gilded heads are delicately applied, their gold accents enhancing the beauty of the crystal and giving the bottle an air of opulence.

Atop the bottle sits a grooved cabochon glass stopper, perfectly fitted to the neck of the amphora. The stopper’s grooved design adds texture and visual interest, complementing the fluid lines of the bottle while ensuring a secure seal. The glass stopper, with its smooth, rounded shape, adds a final touch of elegance and sophistication.

The base of the bottle is marked with both the Baccarat and Caron insignias, along with the year "1983," confirming its authenticity and limited-edition status. The Baccarat mark assures the bottle’s superior craftsmanship, while the Caron insignia links it to the renowned French perfume house, known for its luxurious fragrances.

Standing at 15.7 cm (approximately 6.18 inches) in height, this bottle is both a functional fragrance container and a stunning decorative object. Its combination of translucent crystal, gilded lion heads, and classic amphora shape makes it a rare and beautiful collectible, prized by perfume connoisseurs and collectors of fine glassware alike. The bottle serves as a tribute to the artistry of Baccarat and Caron, and remains a testament to the timeless appeal of refined design.

 

Limited Edition Baccarat Double Blossom Bottle:

The Nocturnes re-edition flacon by Caron is a stunning piece of craftsmanship, presented in a limited edition that reflects the unparalleled quality of Baccarat crystal. This beautifully designed bottle is made from Baccarat crystal, which is known for its exceptional clarity and brilliance. The body of the bottle is adorned with two blossoming flowers in relief, their petals delicately molded and capturing the essence of nature's elegance. These floral details add a sense of luxury and femininity to the flacon, embodying the floral character of the Nocturnes fragrance itself.

Marked with the signature "Baccarat" beneath the base, this piece confirms its origin from one of the most renowned crystal manufacturers in the world. The bottle’s design is completed with a golden-tipped stopper, engraved with the name of the fragrance, adding a further touch of refinement. The stopper is also sealed, ensuring the preservation of the fragrance's quality and authenticity. The addition of a pampille label, which dangles elegantly from the neck of the bottle, provides a graceful finishing touch to the overall aesthetic.

Housed in a matching box, the Nocturnes flacon is presented in a luxurious packaging that enhances its opulence. The box is crafted with intricate passementerie and features a satin interior in a soft rose color, further elevating the sense of sophistication. The box is also titled, marking the significance of the limited-edition release. This attention to detail in both the bottle and the packaging ensures that the Nocturnes re-edition is not only a fragrance but a work of art meant to be cherished and displayed.

Standing at 9.8 cm (approximately 3.85 inches) in height, the bottle is a compact yet striking representation of luxury. Originally used for Caron’s Voeu de Noël fragrance, this flacon has been reissued to house Nocturnes, making it a unique and collectible item. The combination of Baccarat crystal, floral relief decoration, and elegant packaging ensures that this re-edition is a treasured item for perfume collectors and connoisseurs alike.

 

 1986 " Liberté " Limited Edition:

The Nocturnes "Liberté" model, created in 1986, is a stunning limited-edition version of the fragrance, designed to celebrate both the elegance of the perfume and the iconic symbol of freedom. The bottle is crafted from colorless Baccarat crystal, renowned for its clarity and exceptional quality. The most striking feature of the flacon is the face of the Statue of Liberty, molded in relief on the front of the crystal. This intricate and detailed depiction of Liberty adds a sense of grandeur and historic significance to the piece, evoking feelings of both liberty and refinement. The graceful features of the statue are captured in high relief, giving the bottle an artful, sculptural quality that elevates it far beyond the typical perfume flacon.

The bottle is set upon a cherry wood base, rich in color and texture, which adds warmth and a natural elegance to the overall design. Surrounding the bottle is a gold-plated metal cage, designed by Artus-Bertrand, which not only protects the crystal but also enhances its visual impact. The golden cage offers a touch of opulence, while the clean lines and geometric patterns reflect a sense of both contemporary style and timeless sophistication.

The Nocturnes "Liberté" model is housed in a simple yet elegant white cardboard box, which serves to highlight the luxury of the piece within. Accompanying the bottle is a booklet, which further underscores the limited-edition nature of this creation and offers additional context and detail about the artistry behind the design.

Standing at 13 cm in height, the Nocturnes "Liberté" model is a truly unique and collectible item, beautifully blending fragrance, fine craftsmanship, and historical symbolism. As a limited edition, it was released to a select audience, making it even more coveted by fragrance collectors and those who appreciate the artistry of fine glassmaking and design. This bottle remains a cherished example of Caron’s commitment to excellence and innovation, turning a simple fragrance into a treasured work of art.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 1996.

“NOCTURNES” Reissue bottle, in Baccarat crystal, body decorated with two blooming flowers in relief. Signed under the base “Baccarat”. Titled tassel label. Stopper titled in gold letters.  In its trimmings box, interior in pink satin, titled. Limited edition series. 3.85" tall.

First Reformulation:

Reformulated by Gerard Lefort in 1999 and relaunched as an eau de toilette.

The bottles sold from 1999 until 2003? had a slightly modified look for the boxes, the boxes were still black, but the top portion of the box had the abstract motif below an azure blue band.

• Top notes: bergamot, mandarin and lily of the valley.
• Middle notes are: rose, orris and jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, amber and vetiver

This version was was presented in the clear, dimpled glass, oval spray bottle with the golden cap, known as the peppercorn flacon due to it previously being used for the perfume Poivre (pepper). These bottles are packaged in white boxes with gold polka dots and the labels have the same color scheme. Available in sizes 1.7 and 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette.

By 2011, the peppercorn flacon was presented in a purple box with polka dots and the label on the bottles had the same color scheme. Available in sizes 1.7 and 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette. Also, a limited edition  was released, a 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette spray in a case that imitated the look of shagreen.

Second Reformulation:

Reformulated and relaunched in new packaging in 2013 and presented as an eau de parfum.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, orange, green notes, mandarin orange and bergamot 
• Middle notes: cyclamen, tuberose, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose 
• Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver