Fleurs de Rocaille c1933

Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron, launched in 1933 (1934 in the USA), draws its name from the French words "fleurs" meaning flowers and "rocaille", which refers to the rocky, stony landscapes often seen in classical European gardens, particularly in the romantic rock gardens of the English countryside. The term rocaille evokes images of rugged, uneven stone formations adorned with lush greenery and colorful, delicate flowers flourishing in the nooks and crannies of stone walls. Fleurs de Rocaille can be pronounced as “flewr duh roh-kahy,” with the emphasis on the second syllable of “rocaille.” The name suggests a bouquet of flowers found in a wild, natural setting, flourishing amidst the rocky, earthy terrain—a perfect blend of nature's raw beauty and delicate elegance. The imagery conjured by this name is one of floral abundance, where blossoms are free to grow amidst stones, intertwining with the natural elements in a harmonious and organic way.

The perfume’s name, Fleurs de Rocaille, fits perfectly within the early 1930s context—a time when the world was recovering from the aftermath of the Great Depression and the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties had given way to a more restrained, yet still elegant, approach to fashion and style. In this period, the Art Deco movement was at its height, characterized by geometric shapes, clean lines, and bold, modern aesthetics. Women’s fashion, though softer and more modest than the flapper styles of the previous decade, still favored elegance and sophistication. Think of the chic simplicity of the garçonne silhouette, tailored suits, and dresses that echoed the refinement of the 1930s. Women of the time, often seeking refuge from economic uncertainties, would have related to a perfume like Fleurs de Rocaille as a delicate escape into nature’s beauty, its fresh floral notes symbolizing renewal and growth. It embodied a sense of understated luxury—a perfume that spoke to women who appreciated quiet refinement over ostentatious extravagance.

The name Fleurs de Rocaille would have been interpreted in scent as an invitation to experience the natural, untamed beauty of a garden where flowers bloom with wild abandon. It is a perfume that begins with a fresh, green floral heart—a bouquet of tender blooms that might include jasmine, lily of the valley, and rose, offering a clean, dewy fragrance that feels like a soft breeze through a sunlit garden. As the perfume develops, it shifts into a deeper, more complex spicy floral heart, where the spices and florals blend in a delicate dance, evoking the subtle warmth of sun-drenched petals. This spicy element adds a layer of intrigue, like the unexpected warmth of a hidden flower blooming in the crevices of a rocky garden. Finally, the perfume settles onto a powdery floral base—soft, comforting, and reminiscent of the earthiness of a well-tended garden. The powdery finish is both feminine and elegant, like the soft scent of dried petals and leaves preserved in the stone crevices of an ancient garden.

In terms of the perfume’s place in the fragrance landscape of the early 1930s, Fleurs de Rocaille was part of a broader trend in floral fragrances, yet it stood apart due to its inclusion of "aromatics"—spicy, green, and herbal notes that added sparkle and depth to its composition. While other floral perfumes of the time tended to focus on simpler, single-flower compositions or powdery, heavily feminine scents, Fleurs de Rocaille offered a more modern twist by blending floral freshness with aromatic complexity. It was unique in its ability to capture the romantic, natural essence of an English rock garden, a theme that resonated with the growing popularity of outdoor spaces and nature-inspired designs in both fashion and lifestyle.

For the women of the time, Fleurs de Rocaille would have been a sophisticated, modern choice that connected them to the natural world, evoking the beauty of nature’s unrefined charm while still offering the elegance of a finely crafted fragrance. It was a perfect balance of nature and artifice, presenting itself as a clean, fresh floral scent with the added complexity of spices and powdery notes, making it an ideal companion for the modern, fashion-forward woman of the 1930s.

Fleurs de Rocaille was created by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, the founder of Parfums Caron. Daltroff, whose innovative and artistic approach to fragrance creation revolutionized the perfume industry, had a distinct ability to blend complexity with elegance. With Fleurs de Rocaille, he captured the essence of the natural world and the beauty of untouched gardens, weaving it into a fragrance that exudes both freshness and sophistication.

Daltroff's artistry is evident in how Fleurs de Rocaille begins with a clean, green floral heart, evoking the vibrant yet delicate blossoms of an English rock garden. As the fragrance unfolds, the spicy floral heart emerges, introducing a layer of depth that adds warmth and intrigue, while the powdery base provides a soft, comforting finish, reminiscent of dried petals and the gentle earthy tones of the garden itself. This seamless transition from bright florals to deeper, more complex notes is a hallmark of Daltroff's skill in balancing contrasting elements, making Fleurs de Rocaille not only a beautiful floral fragrance but a masterpiece of intricate harmony.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh floral heart, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a powdery floral base. A modern blend, basic floral fragrance with "aromatics" added for sparkle. A floral scent delicately evocative of the charming flowers to be found in so many English rock gardens.

• Top notes: palisander rosewood, neroli, basil, coriander, bergamot, gardenia and violet 
• Middle notes: carnation, jonquil, iris, lilac, narcissus, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, mimosa
• Base notes: vetiver, opoponax, ambergris, civet, musk, cedar and Indian sandalwood

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron: Warm and radiant, this fragrance embodies the essence of flowers basking in the sun. It evokes a woman who nurtures her entire world — her home, her husband, her children. As Leon-Paul Fargue once wrote, she is a woman who knows how to create with grace, whether it’s a bouquet, a hem, or a stew."

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron captures the essence of a spring day in Corsica or along the Riviera, where the fresh, vibrant scent of tiny rock flowers flourishes under the sun. This fragrance is lively and penetrating, yet refined and subtle. While it is suitable for all women, it is particularly flattering on blondes. Though bold in character, it remains a discreet perfume, never overpowering."

Scent Profile:

Fleurs de Rocaille opens with an invitingly bright and complex blend, where the aromatic richness of palisander rosewood embraces the air with its warm, slightly spicy, and sweet woodiness. This is quickly joined by the fresh, green edge of neroli, its citrusy floral note adding a crisp lift to the composition, while a hint of basil sharpens the scent with a touch of herbal brightness. The subtle coriander adds a slight peppery warmth, enhancing the freshness, while the lively bergamot provides a zesty citrus touch, adding sparkle and radiance. Gardenia enters, its creamy, slightly green florals expanding like a lush bloom, while violet introduces a soft powdery sweetness, evoking delicate petals.

As the perfume evolves into its heart, the scent deepens with the peppery, spicy warmth of carnation, which offers a rich, slightly clove-like essence. The airy sweetness of jonquil and mimosa introduce a gentle, yellow floral warmth, reminiscent of spring gardens, while iris gives a soft, powdery floral note with a deep, earthy undertone. The heady, white floral richness of jasmine blooms alongside lily of the valley, whose sweet, fresh greenness brings a lightness to the heart. Violet resurfaces with its unmistakable sweet-powdery scent, intertwining with the delicate femininity of rose, while the honeyed, tropical note of ylang-ylang imparts a slightly exotic richness. In the background, orris offers a velvety, floral, and slightly woody nuance, adding depth to the bouquet.

Finally, the base reveals an intricate, warm foundation. The earthy, smoky richness of vetiver grounds the fragrance, providing a clean, woody base, while opoponax introduces a balsamic sweetness, balancing the base with a resinous, honey-like warmth. Ambergris imparts an elegant, oceanic musky depth that feels luxurious, while civet adds a subtle animalic warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity. Musk envelops the composition, lending it a soft, sensual undertone. The grounding cedar brings a dry, aromatic woodiness, and the rich, creamy warmth of Indian sandalwood adds a velvety smoothness that lingers softly on the skin, creating a luxurious and lasting finish.

In sum, Fleurs de Rocaille is a modern floral fragrance that weaves together vibrant florals and subtle spices, with a carefully crafted base that balances the airiness of the blossoms with grounding woods and musks. It feels like a walk through a sun-drenched garden, full of life, vibrancy, and elegance.

Bottle:

Presented in a footed, squat urn shaped bottle designed by Félicie Vanpouille, with a glass stopper containing a small paper image of a flower sprig in the center, a ruff of pierced paper lace and a black satin ribbon wrapped snugly around the neck completes the bottle's presentation.

Baccarat originally manufactured them between 1933 and 1935, then they were made by other glassmakers. The Baccarat bottles will either have the Baccarat acid stamp or will be inscribed with numbers on the cut and polished base and on the end of the stopper plug, these numbers should match, to show that they were ground for each other for a perfect fit.

The floral print on the stopper should be covered by a thin, curved piece of glass, later editions, not made by Baccarat have a thin piece of Lucite instead of the glass, other examples have nothing covering the print.

The bottles manufactured by both Baccarat and other glass works will have markings on the base such as acid stamps that merely say "France" or will have "Caron France" molded into the bottom.

Photo from worthpoint

This flacon came in various sizes:

• 3 oz = 3 1/4" tall x 2 1/2" wide
• 2 oz = 2 3/4" tall x  2 1/2" wide
• 1.056 oz = 2 1/4" tall 
• 1.0 oz = 2 1/4" tall x 2 3/4" wide
• 0.63 oz = 2" tall x 1 3/4" wide 
• 0.50 oz 1 3/4" tall x 1 3/4" wide.
• 0.25 oz = 1 1/2" tall

The original Parfum was available in the following:

• 1/4 oz  
• 1/2 oz  
• 1 oz  
• 2 oz  
• 4 oz  
• 1/8 oz Atomizer

The original Eau de Toilette was available in the following:

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz 

The fragrance was also available in 

• Dusting Powder

Also housed in a small clear glass purse flacon, studded with molded hobnails, called the peppercorn flacon. This miniature bottle holds just 1/4 oz of parfum.

Two other bottles housed Fleurs de Rocaille, known as the Derringer bottles, these were refillable spray canisters made up of goldtone metal imitating filigree. They were available as a small purse bottle holding 1/7 oz Parfum and a larger size spray which held 2 oz of Eau de Toilette.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.