Nocturnes by Caron c1980

Launched in Europe in May 1980 and introduced to the United States in September 1981, Nocturnes by Caron is a fragrance that evokes the essence of the night, both in name and in scent. The name Nocturnes is derived from the French word for "nighttime" and is pronounced "noh-tur-nuh." The word conjures images of the serene yet mysterious moments that unfold after dusk—an atmosphere of calm, reflection, and allure. It is rooted in the Latin word nocturnus, meaning "of the night," and carries with it an air of sophistication and elegance, evoking the quiet beauty of twilight hours. Women of the time, particularly in the 1980s, would have related to Nocturnes as a fragrance that resonated with their growing sense of independence, sensuality, and the desire for experiences beyond the confines of daylight. The fragrance mirrored the emerging empowerment of women in this era, marking a shift towards more complex and daring perfumes that aligned with the bold spirit of the time.

The word Nocturnes is inherently tied to the idea of a scent that evolves through the hours, like the changing moods of the night. It suggests mystery, intimacy, and a touch of the exotic—qualities that would be beautifully interpreted in scent. The fragrance, created by perfumer Roger Pellégrino of Firmenich, was a labor of love, taking a decade to perfect. It is classified as an aldehydic woody floral, opening with a bright, aldehydic top that soon melds into a radiant floral heart. The fragrance then settles on a sweet, powdery, and distinctly feminine base. This composition of over 80 ingredients, including stephanotis, rose, jasmine, tuberose, and ylang ylang, is a harmonious blend of floral opulence and woody warmth. Pellégrino’s description of Nocturnes as a "flowery and fragile fragrance... blooming with a woody, spicy warm combination, touched by a sensual hint of amber" conveys the deep complexity and balance of its character.

 

Narcisse Noir by Caron c1911

Narcisse Noir by Caron, launched in 1911, carries a name rich with both symbolic meaning and sensory intrigue. The phrase "Narcisse Noir" translates from French to "Black Narcissus." The word narcisse refers to the narcissus flower, also known as the daffodil, which is renowned for its delicate, sweet scent. However, in this context, the adjective noir (pronounced nwar) adds an air of mystery and depth. "Black Narcissus" evokes imagery of the narcissus blooming under the cover of night, where its fragrance is said to transform into something deeper, more intoxicating, and elusive. The name conjures visions of dark, velvety petals opening under the moonlight, releasing an aura of sensuality and allure. This imagery, steeped in the romantic notion of the night, evokes a sense of mystery, the forbidden, and the enigmatic. It suggests an olfactory experience that is rich, dark, and seductively powerful—qualities that align with the perfume’s character.

Launched during the early 20th century, Narcisse Noir emerged during the Belle Époque period, a time marked by opulence, artistic expression, and a fascination with the avant-garde. The fashion of the time was luxurious, with women embracing elegant, structured garments such as corsets, dresses with intricate lacework, and artful accessories like long gloves and extravagant hats. This period was known for its emphasis on refinement, but also for a growing desire for freedom and self-expression, especially in the aftermath of the first wave of feminism and the shifting roles of women in society. Women of this era would have been drawn to Narcisse Noir for its bold, sophisticated composition that encapsulated both the opulence and the intrigue of the time. The perfume represented a departure from the simpler, lighter floral scents that were common, offering something darker, more complex, and sensually potent.

The perfume’s creation was a triumph in the art of perfumery, particularly because it successfully captured the elusive scent of the narcissus flower at night—a feat that had long eluded chemists. Unlike its daytime counterpart, the narcissus bloom’s fragrance at night is far richer, heavier, and more penetrating. Ernest Daltroff, Caron’s creator, captured this essence and bottled it, giving birth to a fragrance that was unlike anything else on the market. The composition of Narcisse Noir begins with a fresh, flowery top—a bouquet of roses, jasmine, and orange blossoms—that sets a vibrant, floral tone. But as the perfume develops, it becomes darker, with a dry, slightly powdery floral heart that deepens the overall scent. The base is sensual and complex, steeped in a rich, full-bodied floral essence that lingers with an intoxicating warmth. This progression, from fresh and light to dark and heavy, mirrors the transformation of the narcissus flower at night, as well as the fragrance’s namesake—the black narcissus.