Caron Perfumes: Farnesiana by Caron c1947

Farnesiana by Caron, launched in 1947, carries with it a name rich in botanical and historical significance. The word “Farnesiana” is derived from Acacia Farnesiana, the Latin name for cassie, a flower known for its sweet, intoxicating scent. The name also pays homage to the Farnese Gardens, located within the Roman Farnese Palace, which served as the inspiration for the fragrance. Pronounced as "far-neh-see-ah-nah", Farnesiana evokes images of lush, sun-drenched gardens, with their vibrant floral displays, delicate greenery, and an air of quiet opulence. It conjures emotions of luxury and timeless beauty, offering a sense of escape to an idyllic, classical landscape, where nature and elegance intertwine.

The perfume was introduced in a period marked by the end of World War II and the dawn of a new era, full of hope and rebuilding. The late 1940s were a time of transition, as Europe emerged from the devastation of the war and entered the post-war era. Fashion had shifted from the austerity of wartime to the glamour and femininity of haute couture, with Christian Dior’s "New Look" leading the charge. In this context, a perfume like Farnesiana would have been a luxurious escape, a celebration of rebirth and femininity, offering women a chance to indulge in an olfactory experience that reflected the lavish beauty of the world they were now entering. Women of the time, particularly those who were embracing the world of fashion and sophistication, would have connected with Farnesiana as a fragrance that represented elegance, rejuvenation, and a return to the finer things in life.

The creation of Farnesiana was a long and thoughtful process, with its origins tracing back to 1941 when Michel Morsetti began recreating the perfume from notes left by Ernest Daltroff, the founder of Parfums Caron. It wasn’t until 1947 that the fragrance was finally completed and released to the public. Classified as a floral fragrance, Farnesiana is a harmonious blend of sweet floral notes with a rich, honeyed undertone. The fragrance opens with the fresh, fruity sweetness of blackcurrant, followed by the golden warmth of mimosa and almond, evoking the delicate nature of cassie flowers. As it settles, Farnesiana reveals a creamy base of vanilla and sandalwood, which adds depth and sensuality to the composition.

In terms of its place within the broader perfume trends of the 1940s, Farnesiana stands apart as a fragrance that combines both floral sweetness and an elegant, comforting warmth, setting it slightly apart from the more typical floral or aldehydic perfumes of the era. While the 1940s saw the rise of rich, complex florals like those found in Jicky or Shalimar, Farnesiana offered a gentler, more intimate approach to florals, with an added layer of smoothness and warmth. Its ability to endure for hours on the skin—remaining thick, syrupy, and almost addictive—made it an ideal scent for the more discerning woman of the post-war world, one who appreciated subtlety and elegance.

A vintage bottle of Farnesiana reveals the passage of time in its deep amber color, a result of the perfume’s aging process. Even though the top notes may have slightly soured in older bottles, the fragrance still exudes a beautiful richness that makes it a lasting treasure. The honeyed mimosa and almond notes are still very much present, enveloping the wearer in an aura of comforting sweetness, while the creamy vanilla and sandalwood provide a refined foundation. Despite being a product of its time, Farnesiana remains a timeless, captivating scent, evocative of both the natural beauty it was named after and the sophisticated world in which it was born.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, powdery floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: cassis, mimosa, bergamot, bitter almond
Heart notes: jasmine, hay, lily of the valley, violet, lilac, iris, lavender
Base notes: cassie, opoponax, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, heliotrope

Scent Profile:

Farnesiana opens with an immediate burst of sweetness, a delicate and irresistible blend of cassis and mimosa that lingers in the air like a sun-dappled garden at the height of spring. The cassis, or blackcurrant, gives the fragrance a tangy, berry-like freshness, almost tart but with a deep, round juiciness that awakens the senses. It’s a playful, uplifting note that introduces the perfume’s sweetness in a light, yet vibrant manner.

Nestled alongside it is the mimosa, soft and powdery, a floral note that feels like the golden rays of the sun, warm and radiant. The mimosa brings an almost creamy, honeyed quality to the composition, evoking the softest, most comforting of blooms. These top notes are subtly enhanced by a touch of bergamot, which adds a crisp citrusy brightness, along with the slightly bitter edge of bitter almond, which brings a nutty, slightly almond-like sharpness. It’s an intriguing juxtaposition—sweet, bright, and a little bit tangy—all swirling together in an inviting, almost edible opening.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a lush, powdery bouquet of florals that envelops the senses in softness and complexity. The jasmine here is not overwhelming but rather a rich, velvety note, warm and slightly honeyed, with its intoxicating, full-bodied sweetness balancing the powdery softness that surrounds it.

The addition of hay brings an earthy, almost grassy nuance, grounding the floral notes with a touch of nature’s wildness. It adds an unexpected but welcome complexity, like walking through a fragrant field in full bloom. The lily of the valley contributes a clean, green freshness, its delicate, bell-like flowers giving off an air of understated elegance and purity. Then there is the violet, sweet and almost candied, adding a light, delicate powderiness that feels timeless and nostalgic.

The lilac continues this soft, powdery theme, with its lightly sweet, fresh, and slightly woody scent, while the iris deepens the composition with its smooth, rooty, and slightly leathery undertones. Finally, the lavender here is not the sharp, medicinal variety but rather a soft, herbaceous floral, its calming, almost soapy freshness adding a clean, soothing quality to the heart of the fragrance.

In the base, Farnesiana settles into a warm, sensual foundation, built on the rich, balsamic sweetness of cassie, which adds a distinct, powdery and slightly floral character that beautifully echoes the mimosa from the top. The opoponax imparts a resinous, sweet depth, offering an almost honeyed warmth that softens the more powdery florals.

The vanilla grounds the fragrance with a creamy, comforting sweetness that intertwines beautifully with the soft woodiness of sandalwood, which adds depth and smooth, dry elegance. The musk rounds out the base with its soft, animalic warmth, imparting an almost velvety softness that lingers on the skin, adding a sense of intimacy and warmth. Finally, the heliotrope brings a final, soft touch to the composition, its sweet, almond-like powderiness adding an ethereal, almost nostalgic finish that carries the fragrance into its final stages with grace.

Overall, Farnesiana is a sweet, powdery floral masterpiece, its blend of floral and balsamic notes weaving together in an intricate dance that is both comforting and sophisticated. The perfume is at once delicate and rich, soft and sensual, offering a timeless elegance that lingers on the skin long after the first spray. It’s a fragrance that feels like a soft embrace, an invitation to a world of quiet luxury and serene beauty.

Bottles:

Ernest Daltroff's wife, Félicie Bergaud, née Vanpouille, designed the bottle, a flat, square crystal flacon with rounded shoulders and a flat, oval stopper, molded with "Caron", and made by Baccarat. This well known bottle was used for other perfumes including, N'Aimez Que Moi (1916) and Tabac Blond (1919).

Farnesiana was available in the following forms: