En Avion by Caron c1929

En Avion by Caron, launched in France in 1929 and later in the USA by 1932, evokes a sense of adventure, freedom, and the exhilaration of flight—both literal and metaphorical. The name En Avion, pronounced "ON-AH-VEE-ON", is French for "In the Airplane," draws a direct connection to the thrilling era of early air travel, a time when flying was still a rare and awe-inspiring feat. 

The perfume's name encapsulates the spirit of the 1920s, when aviation pioneers like Jean Mermoz, Hélène Boucher, and Lena Bernstein were making headlines for their groundbreaking achievements. Mermoz, known for his daring flights across the South Atlantic, Boucher, an accomplished French aviator, and Bernstein, who set new records for female aviators, all embodied the bold, adventurous spirit that En Avion sought to capture. The fragrance not only honors their legacy but also reflects the growing cultural fascination with flight during this era.

The words En Avion evoke imagery of soaring above the clouds, a sense of limitless possibility, and a fresh, unencumbered perspective. It’s a name that conjures up the glamour of the golden age of aviation—the smooth metallic sheen of aircraft, the rush of wind at high altitudes, and the promise of freedom and modernity. The fragrance feels like a tribute to women of the time who were beginning to embrace more daring, independent lives, reflecting the social changes of the Roaring Twenties and the emerging Art Deco period. In 1929, as flappers reveled in their newfound freedom, fashion was bold, exuberant, and vibrant. Dresses became shorter, silhouettes more fluid, and the social world opened up to new forms of self-expression and excitement—En Avion, in that context, seemed a fitting symbol of adventure and sophistication.

En Avion was created by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, and it is classified as a rich, spicy floral-oriental fragrance, blending opulent spices with warm, ambery notes. The scent opens with a captivating blend of spices—rich, slightly peppery, and enlivened by a subtle sweetness. It immediately recalls the sensation of excitement, much like the rush of a plane taking off, gaining altitude, and leaving the earth behind. Beneath this spicy veil, there’s a soft, floral heart, filled with delicate blooms like jasmine and rose, evoking the smooth flow of air around a soaring aircraft. These florals, while present, do not dominate the composition but provide an elegant balance to the heat of the spices, creating a seamless transition between the exotic, the daring, and the feminine.

As the fragrance settles, a warm, ambery base emerges—rich and enveloping. The musky undertones ground the scent, adding depth and complexity, while the amber brings a smooth, golden warmth, evoking the sensation of sunlight filtering through clouds. It’s a scent that feels both luxurious and accessible, sensual yet refined, just as the idea of air travel was both exciting and elegant at the time. Recommended for daytime wear, En Avion straddles the line between fresh vibrancy and sophisticated warmth, making it versatile yet memorable.

In the context of other fragrances released during the 1920s, En Avion was unique in its composition, especially with its spicy oriental character. While floral perfumes were common, the combination of ambery, spicy, and floral elements set En Avion apart from the more traditional fragrances of the period, which often leaned heavily on floral or aldehydic compositions. This daring blend of spices, florals, and musk was in line with the growing trend for more complex and experimental fragrances during the era, but it also carried the modern, forward-looking optimism that matched the spirit of aviation itself. En Avion was not just a perfume—it was a fragrant representation of an era that embraced new technologies, new ideas, and a sense of boundless possibility.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich spicy floral-oriental perfume. Spicy, ambery note, with a floral and musky background. It was recommended to be worn for daytime.

• Top notes: orange, neroli, rose and carnation
• Middle notes: lilac, orange blossom and jasmine
• Base notes: amber, leather, opopanax, sandalwood and musk

Harper's Bazaar, 1933:

"The fresh fragrance of Caron's En Avion was created for the modern - Both femme fatale and femme sportif."

The Delineator, 1935:

"Caron's "En Avion" still holds its own. It's hard to equal its freshness, its brisk and beckoning summons. There's something irresistible about "En Avion." It seems to promise wings."

Vogue, 1936:

"En Avion from Caron, above the woods and the clouds. It is soft and golden, firm and tenacious, light and spicy."

Arts and Decoration, 1936:

"Newest of Caron perfumes is "Fleurs de Rocaille" (Rock-Garden Flowers). This rapturous fragrance by the creators of world famed "Nuit de Noel", is one of three recent additions to the Caron line. The other two are, "En Avion", a light and spicy modern perfume, and "Pour Un Homme", a man's essence. "

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"En Avion" — Caron's warm-hearted and breezy scent. Feminine but not too sweetly so."

Scent Profile:

En Avion unfurls its rich, spicy floral-oriental character from the very first breath, starting with a bold and vibrant introduction. The top notes of orange and neroli greet you like the brisk, refreshing air on an early morning flight, where the sharp, zesty citrus of orange lifts the senses, sparking a sense of excitement and anticipation. The neroli, with its delicate, green-floral sweetness, adds an elegant edge, as if the crisp freshness of the orange is tempered by the soft, sun-kissed petals of a blooming tree. Together, these top notes feel like a burst of vitality, a snapshot of the world just before takeoff—refreshing, energetic, and filled with promise.

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes begin to emerge, seamlessly blending into the composition. The lilac introduces a powdery softness, gently enveloping the citrusy brightness of the top notes with its cool, floral sweetness. It’s a delicate note that evokes images of soft, silken petals unfurling in the light, their gentle scent filling the air around you. Alongside lilac, orange blossom joins the symphony—its creamy, heady fragrance brings to mind the warmth of sunlight on fragrant blossoms, evoking the feeling of a lush, sun-dappled grove. 

Jasmine’s floral richness takes center stage, a lush, intoxicating scent that deepens the perfume’s heart, offering a creamy, almost honeyed note that speaks of romance and warmth. This floral bouquet envelops you in an aura of graceful femininity and elegance, like a woman poised in the midst of adventure, her presence as inviting as the air she breathes.

As En Avion develops, the base notes offer a grounding, sensual finish. Amber emerges as the dominant force here, its resinous warmth enveloping the wearer in a soft golden glow, rich and resinous with a honeyed, almost balsamic sweetness. It’s comforting yet opulent, wrapping the fragrance in an aura of luxury and sophistication. 

Leather follows closely behind, its smooth, smoky richness adding depth and complexity, like the soft, comforting scent of worn leather seats in an old aviator’s cockpit—steeped in history and adventure. Opopanax adds a touch of resinous sweetness, with a hint of balsamic depth that grounds the scent further, like the comforting weight of a journey’s destination. Sandalwood’s creamy, woody warmth ties everything together, providing a smooth, velvety finish that lingers on the skin like the afterglow of a long flight. 

Finally, musk adds its signature warmth and sensuality, an almost animalistic note that brings a layer of intrigue and intimacy to the fragrance. The combination of these base notes creates a lingering, enveloping warmth that lingers on the skin, much like the feeling of soft, sun-warmed leather after a day spent in the open sky.

Each ingredient in En Avion complements the others in a harmonious dance, crafting a perfume that is both rich and uplifting, spicy yet floral, grounded in warmth yet soaring with brightness. The fragrance as a whole evokes a sense of adventure, but with an unmistakable undercurrent of luxury—much like the early days of flight, when the world felt both exhilaratingly new and yet comfortingly familiar, filled with possibility and grace.

Bottles:

The En Avion perfume by Caron is housed in a remarkable and elegant bottle that perfectly complements the luxurious scent it contains. Designed by Felicie Vanpouille, the crystal urn-shaped bottle is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its graceful curves, reminiscent of a finely sculpted urn, lend it an air of timeless sophistication, with the soft gleam of crystal reflecting the light. This shape, both bold and graceful, perfectly encapsulates the rich, spicy floral-oriental fragrance within.

The stopper itself is a standout feature, intricately designed with a blend of elegance and modernity. A square, slightly beveled stopper rests atop the bottle, and its unique construction is enhanced by a modified chrome frame. The frame itself is sleek and polished, giving the bottle an industrial edge, while the stopper's subtle recess and delicate detailing ensure the overall design remains refined. The chrome frame lifts away with ease, revealing the stopper beneath, which holds a sense of quiet sophistication.

At the top of the stopper, a brass disk sits nestled within a recessed section, and it is here that the true artistry of the bottle comes to life. The disk, openworked and delicate, takes the shape of a compass, a nod to the fragrance's aviation inspiration. The compass, etched with the words "CARON - EN AVION" in bold, Art Deco lettering, adds a layer of distinction and visual intrigue. The fine lines and geometric patterns typical of the Art Deco style are evident, the bold typography anchoring the design in the era of innovation and forward-thinking. This small, circular emblem creates a fascinating focal point for the bottle, evoking a sense of direction and adventure.

The brass disk is shielded by a slightly domed glass panel that sits above it, completing the top of the stopper. This glass panel, smooth and clear, reflects the light in such a way that it almost appears to glow, adding a subtle but radiant finish to the bottle’s design. Together, the chrome frame, glass, and brass disk create a harmonious whole that feels both opulent and purposeful—an homage to the world of aviation and modernist design.

Originally designed for En Avion, this bottle became iconic in its own right and was later adapted for Fleurs de Rocaille in 1936, showcasing the timeless appeal of Vanpouille’s work. As model #946 in the Baccarat catalog, it reflects the high standards and craftsmanship of Baccarat’s glassmakers, ensuring the bottle not only houses the perfume but becomes a collector’s item in its own right. This exquisite piece is not just a bottle—it is a work of art, capturing the essence of the era’s fascination with flight and its aspirations for the future.

The perfume retailed for $14 an ounce and $30 for the 2.35 oz size in 1933.

• The 1 oz bottle stands 2" tall.
• 2.12 oz 
• The 2.35 oz size bottle stands 3" tall.

  

Matching Powder Box:

A square metal box was crafted to house the scented face powder, continuing the theme of elegance and precision established by the perfume bottle. The box itself is sleek and minimalistic, its surface smooth with a subtle metallic sheen that speaks to its refined quality. The top of the box is adorned with the same distinctive compass symbol found on the En Avion bottle stopper, adding a sense of continuity and connection between the two products. This openwork compass, with its geometric lines and Art Deco flair, is beautifully inscribed on the surface, creating a striking focal point that mirrors the bottle's design. The symbol evokes a sense of direction, adventure, and modernity, reinforcing the spirit of aviation that En Avion so strongly embodies. The box’s compact, square shape is both practical and stylish, serving as a fitting container for the delicate scented powder while also doubling as a small, collectible work of art.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1933:

"En Avion" perfume, a delicate bouquet odor, is the latest addition to Caron perfumes. Complementing the perfume is the face powder presented in square metal case for which refills may be obtained."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1929, En Avion captivated perfume lovers with its rich, spicy floral-oriental composition, celebrating the era’s fascination with aviation and air travel. The fragrance, which embodied the spirit of adventure and modernity, was discontinued sometime after its initial success, though it remained available for sale until around 1988, continuing to hold a place in the hearts of those who cherished its unique blend. The original En Avion became a symbol of the times, an elegant and daring scent that captured the essence of the late 1920s. In 1995, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched, adapting to modern tastes while retaining the soul of the original. This relaunch was an homage to its rich heritage, breathing new life into a timeless classic, ensuring that the allure of En Avion would once again grace the perfume world, evoking memories of a golden age of aviation and luxury.